Tubed Or Tubeless?

I like that logic DOZERS DAD, but is it not the case that you're even less likely to get a puncture with the bike, because you only have 2 rather than 4 wheels? On a serious note, this is a question I hve been asking myself too, because I am about to buy either a T120 or a new Speed Twin, and it is one of the factors to consider.

 

You have got to find out if you have tubes in there,looking at your rims they are raised in the middle suggesting that they are tubeless,iv'e had a few bikes with spokes that were tubeless.If your bike has tubes the biggest problem is breaking the bead to get the tubes out,if like rich correctly says your rims are chrome as soon as the tyre goes down the tyre will come away from the rim and if it moves then will be out of balance,all in all tubes are a pain in the arse,my current POS has got tubes,i have just ordered some tubeless wheels.[not the bike on my avatar,my Africa Twin]

 

I think the best way,is as already been said,if the valve is threaded all the way down you probably have tubes in there,i don't think there is another way to tell without letting the tyre down,if you let one tyre down and you can push the tyre away from the rim then you have tubes.

 

If it was me I would never buy a bike with tubed tires on spoked wheels. I purchased the Street Twin (versus the T100) for that reason (cast wheels and tubeless tires). I like the 'look' of spoked wheels but would personally never own one. So I would go with the Speed Twin if you want the 1200 size. I always carry a plug/CO2 cartridge flat repair kit. I have had a flat before (simple nail) and was able to do a quick roadside repair and get home. And in general, tubeless tires on cast wheels are generally considered to be safer. A tubeless tire leak is generally a slow leak, where a puncture on a tubed tire can rapidly deflate the tire leading to a possible accident.
Just my opinion.

 

I agree you have a puncture with a tubeless tyre you have got time to slow down,with tubes and a puncture you will probably end up on your arse,iv'e had so many slides with my front tyre in the dry,how iv'e saved them all so far is a mystery,same thing happened when i had a tiger 800xc with 21" tubed tyre,that's why i am buying new wheels.

 

If you find you have tubes and you can put some type of sealant in them to slow down the puncture or to keep the tyre inflated,that's got to be the way especially where you are going.

 

That's good you can go see this stuff for yourself,hopefully you will come away a bit more relaxed

 

DD,yes i agree, the wheel in the vid is tubeless

 

Thread all the way down does not reliably indicate tubes. Bolt in tubeless valve stems are available as I have some

 

A guy was demonstrating something similar at NEC last year (2017).
I asked about balance if going fast and he reassured me that it had been tested over 150mph.

Still not convinced personally but father in law swears by it for his push bike and arthritic thumbs.

 

Wow DD that is a very sound and reasonable post considering the time of the morning!
As he said, there are very few, if any, stupid questions but there has to be some honesty. For example my recommendation of a plug spanner wasnt to suggest the plugs were going to expire in a 2000 mile or so trip but a lot of diagnosis can be done via this hole.
For you to suggest mole grips makes most technically minded people cringe and would, in my mind, be wasting precious space.

Why don't you tell us what you are thinking of taking with you and then we can advise the pros and cons for said items?

 

Old habits......? I suspect we are not far removed in age and my take is that you are in danger of over thinking things.
I am a great believer in foresight, planning and preparation but also probability. A puncture or other kind of breakdown is a actually quite a low probability event on a modern motorcycle ridden on European tarmac. You are going to ‘remote’ Norway not ‘uninhabited’ Norway and on a well frequented summer route......in summer.
There might be some things I would do prior to departure because they have longer term benefit. Top of those would be roadside rescue insurance, a charged mobile and a list of numbers to call. If you are competent with tools I would pack a small tool roll with the spanners needed to remove a wheel and a couple of tyre levers plus a spare rear tube (the smaller diameter can be ‘persuaded’ onto the front rim in extremis)
It is unclear if you are flying solo - you only need one set of tools between a group - and being retired are generally more time flexible.
You just come across (ever so slightly!) as someone who might not enjoy the ride because you are straining to hear every change in engine note, strange suspension knock, handlebar vibration.....
And I use Slime in my tyres - as much to decelerate deflation as for total prevention. Personally I would be more worried about an ambling elk!

 

And just what parts do you foresee needing? You can get anything Triumph specific from here to rural Norway in 48hrs. Your immediate need is more likely to be generic......air, oil, tyre, tube, chain. Chill!