T140e Will Not Run

Sounds like the pilot jets are blocked

 

I would presume you have checked that the valve timing and ignition timing are correct and a good fat spark at each plug? do not run RITA ignition without the plug earthed as it will kill the amp,
Other than this if your certain all else is OK are you tickling the carbs before start all older triumphs like to be very rich to start, have you checked the plugs to see if there is fuel getting through?
As said double check the carbs, have you got the air screws about 1- 1.5 turns out, in is richer.

 

So it will start with difficulty, but wont keep running even with a bit of choke, what about if you take off the choke and use the throttle does it still just die?
does it spit back through the carb or exhaust?

 

Air screws should be 1.5 turns out as a starting point, have you checked the float hight as this if too high will cause flooding IE very rich and lumpy, in theory most twins and triples will always need the carbs tickled initially so like being rich to start, but if too rich when hot or not enough air IE choke will tend to die.

As for the RITA ignition it needs a good charged battery to start reliably, also check that all the earth point are clean and making good contact, the other thing worth checking is the cut out switch/button, i have know then to make contact with vibration which will cause all kinds of odd effects.

 

Can of worms mate best to set the carbs to stock settings ,needle position float heights air screws etc then refit them and make sure they are both opening/shut the same amount once done you can eliminate them and move on , you've done the basics first I assume plugs, air filter, battery (fully charged) valve clearances/timing etc etc ?

 

Good luck Paul don't give up synch the carbs check your wiring have a look in a manual for timing setting if you haven't got one look online for a download

 

Paul J cook
When I was working on my Silver Jubilee. I found that the timing had to be done on the right cylinder. And valve timing was a nightmare as it only lines up every 90 odd revolutions or so. I ended up with advice of the peeps on here to start again by taking the head of and setting it from start. The Haynes manual was useless and no help a tall I had to purchase a oem manual and using that which was a whole lot better. But I do feel your issues might still be carbs. Try putting a squirt of fuel down each plug hole and see the starting. I would also like to find out about the company selling the Lucas parts. I am working on my TSX and it seem to run the battery flat so may look at new Lucas bits as I would like to keep it oem. When I set my carbs I used 6mm drill bits under the slides and had them lifting exactly the same both sides. Firstly I run each cylinder on its own and set to 1000 revs then readjusted the screws to 1000 revs. then took the airbox to filter rubbers of and set the slides to lift exactly the same. I also found on mine I took the choke slides out and it ran better.
Ride Safe
Joe

 

It can't be something as simple as a breather pipe somewhere?
Fuel being used and no vent so causing a vacuum?
Blocked fuel filter?
Blocked vent in the tank?

I am not familiar with the bike so just guessing

 

Mk2 concentrics req a lot of choke until engine is warm, pilot should be 15, choke jet 35, needle jet .106, slide3 1/2 and needle 2A1 for optimal non emission spec so worth checking you have this set up, also any amount of wear on bottom of slides is a bad thing for starting.

 

Ditch the original ignition and stick a Boyer on her piece of piss to fit and good value for money