The burr cutter I've ordered is 150mm and I figured that would easily reach. I'd have to take the can off again to check. Measuring from the outside, they look to be 100mm in, so I'd advise at least 150mm to give wiggle room (edit: and for the length that's held in the chuck). (Apparently men have difficultly estimating anything this sort of length.) I've adjusted my plan to drill through first with an 11mm steel drill, then use the burr cutter to grind away the rest (leaving the welded edge untouched). I'll take photos and post them up.
Look forward to hearing how it goes, i took loads of pictures but didn't measure the exact disc position oops, I always forget something!
I can't beleive that they come with such a small hole in the plate plugs themselves in baffel, but thats the joy of being in the EU I suppose.
How hard is the metal spacer then, I thought it'd be fairly easy to drill through? As it happens, I have got a step drill already but no welder for adding the bolt. Bike's going in to the dealers on Wednesday, might see if they've debaffled an RS yet
This is the way to go! The metal is quite hard, as it is stainless steel. I would say about 2mm thick.
OK. I'm all tooled up. The disc is stainless steel - which means many of the step cutters are not suitable. They might do the job, but as there are two cans to attack, I Googled harder and found a hex-shaft cobalt version on Amazon that states it will handle hard metals like stainless. Quality looks really good...but we shall see! The hex extension was £4 from my local ITS (for those of us that can't weld bolts to our drill bits ). I also picked up a regular 13mm HSS drill - to give it a good start. When the 32mm step has been reached, I'll use the tungsten carbide burr cutter to go the last mile and tidy up around the end of the tube for a slick finish (don't want anything impeding that exhaust gas and sound ). All I have to do is find time to do the job. I'll be back.
I put effort into this so you don't have to - and I'm not worried about how much of a performance it has been...I enjoy the challenge . So this is how to get the discs out in one go, with the minimum amount of effort, leaving the carbon caps and baffles in place. The sound improvement is significant - it's a really nice modification. Original 5mm hole: Starrett 41mm hole cutter and extension: 41mm hole and lovely low rumble (you're now looking straight down the pipe at the baffle at the other end).
Hey, really appreciate all the info here! I have a 2018 RS and am trying to work out what to do, have zero experience doing anything like this. I spoke to my local Triumph garage this week who said they won't do it if they're welded, which based on the above they will be. I've ordered the tools from the last post and might take a stab, but am also thinking about getting a pair of SC Project cans (black) and putting those on then selling the Arrows.. However if I do that I'm assuming I should leave them stock. Any idea on whether they would sell quickly / what sort of price? I'm in South London if anyone's interested. Cheers
I understand that the high-level SC cans won't yet fit the 2018 RS link pipe as the diameter is different, but a revised version will be available later this year. The information that I got directly from SC regarding their low-level versions certainly didn't stack up (given the 2018 link pipe is longer where it meets the catalytic converter), so I won't be confident that any of their products fit, until I see photos of them fitted to an RS on their website. In the meantime, if you need more information before attacking your Arrows, drop me a PM and I'll be happy to help you out
I now have a SC Project single side carbon conical for sale From a 2016 Speed Triple R If this is of interest to you guys please do PM me Not sure of a price but sure something can be agreed I know in the picture it has a Pipewerx sticker on it, this has been corrected to the correct SC Project sticker, I have the card proving it is road legal
Thanks buddy - I went round a friends house this afternoon who's a little more savvy than I am with all this. We've made a small improvement but not the result I was hoping for.. for information, the Starrett 41mm hole cutter and extension won't fit into some smaller drills we borrowed a neighbours which did get them in but within literally 30 secs all the teeth broke off the drill part making it useless! I also had a step drill part which we fitted on the end and that finally started making some progress, but it was tediously slow with the extension and drill part falling off / becoming lose every 10-15 secs. In the end we widened the holes by 2-3 times the original size but not completely (we had to stop in the end as the drill was over heating and starting to smoke). I would suggest anyone attempting this to have a commercial grade drill before starting. My exhaust sounds marginally louder, but nothing too noticeable. I might look for a local mechanic who is willing to take the job on now! Edit: Just emailed SC Project to ask about the diameter on their pipes, will drop the response on here.
It shouldn't have been that tough a job...and the teeth stripped off the hole cutter ? I'm not sure what drill you have, but I used a relatively small 18v Makita Drill/Driver (13mm chuck) as it was easier to handle than my larger 'semi-commercial' SDS version. Those Starrett cutters are rock-hard - you shouldn't apply much pressure and you need to use slower speeds (say 200rpm)...and a cutting paste helps keep it cool. The photo I took is of the cutter after I'd finished both cans. With the entire disc gone, it should make a noticeable difference.
Yeah that's nuts that you stripped off all the teeth! I tried the 41mm hole cutter method and I was surprised at how fast it ate through honestly. It took literally about 20-30 seconds per can to cut the hole. Although, not quite loud enough yet, I think I'm going to have to take the plunge and remove the baffles.
