Daytona 675 2014 Won't Start After Filling Up With Fuel

Starting System Symptoms:

Weak battery symptoms:
-- Slow cranking.
-- Stops cranking suddenly on compression stroke with button pressed.
-- Starts when starter button is released at end of cranking.
Repair:
-- Charge/Test/Replace battery.
Failure Modes:
-- Loss of capacity. Appears to charge, voltage good but no reserve for starting.
-- Won't hold a charge.
-- Low voltage/cell failure.
Preventative Maintenance:
-- Check fluid levels regularly
-- Maintain full charge: Regular riding, trickle charger.

Ignition Coil failure symptoms:
-- Hard starting/misfiring during cranking.
-- Rough idle that can't be tuned out with carb adjustments and carb cleaning.
-- Idle misfire clears with new sparkplugs, returns in a few hundred miles
Repair:
-- Replace: Preferably with Nology for higher reliability than stock Gill coils.
Failure Mode:
-- Shorted turns in secondary resulting in weak spark.
Preventative Maintenance:
-- None
Testing:

Pickup Coil failure symptoms:
-- No spark at all
-- Spark quits with engine hot, returns when engine cool.
-- Note: Pickup coil failure is total. There is no random misfire spark loss.
Repair:
-- Replace pickup coil
Failure mode:
-- Thermal intermittant with long (15-30 minute) period.
Preventative Maintenance:
-- None. Get a spare.
Testing:
-- Ohms checks hot and cold.

Worn starter symptoms:
-- Sometimes won't crank until the bike is rocked in gear.
-- Excessively noisy cranking with a grinding sound.
-- Click from under seat but no cranking.
Failure Mode:
-- Brush wear progressing to commutator damage.
-- Bearing failure related to brush wear.
Repair:
-- Rebuild or replace.
Preventative Maintenance:
-- Maintain battery in peak condition.
-- Follow proper starting procedures. Neutral, clutch in.
-- Crank 5-10 seconds at a time max., switch off for twice as long before cranking again.

Worn sprag clutch symptoms:
-- Very loud rattling when cranking
-- Starter spins but engine doesn't turn
Falure Mode:
-- Breakage
Repair:
-- Replace sprag clutch
Preventative Maintenance:
-- Maintain battery in peak condition.
-- Follow proper starting procedures. Neutral, clutch in.

Worn starter solenoid:
-- Click from under seat but no cranking.
-- Won't crank after rocking bike.
-- Starter continues to run after bike starts and won't stop until the battery is disconnected.
Failure mode:
-- Internal contact damage resulting in non-conduction.
-- Internal contact damage resulting in contacts welding shut.
-- Internal damage/wear prevents solenoid core movement.
Preventative Maintenance:
-- None.
Repair:
-- Replace starter solenoid.
Testing:
-- For no cranking, short across solenoid high-power terminals. Normal operation denotes failed solenoid contacts.

 

I have carefully read your post but your description is a bit ambiguous.....
Makes a clicking sound....once, twice repeatedly? Can you identify the source of the clicking?
Wants to start......does the engine actually turn over? (Machinery doesn’t have feelings!)
You associate it with refuelling but could that be because the engine was hot and then has time to cool? Is it otherwise a good hot starter?

 

It sounds like the electronic management system may be taking too long to re-set itself which can be most annoying.
Are you sure this is only happening when you re-fuel ? I think that is more by coincidence.
Try stopping and starting the engine under normal conditions just to check it out.
Have your battery checked, a slight drop in charge can give a similar 'click' when trying to start.
Electrical connections at the battery and starter are always worth checking.
Sticking solenoid

 

What DD said plus could be weight of fuel pushing tank down on a connection, breather, wire.

 

Of course I know bikes have feelings and, indeed, personalities. I just didn’t want Michelle fretting she had bought a misogynist.

 

9 times out of 10. These issues are related to a deteriorating battery

 

9 times out of 10. These issues are related to a deteriorating battery

 

I'm not familiar with your particular bike, and you certainly do have an unusual problem. However, Sprinter's comment made me think of something I saw in one of my Triumph service manuals. It's under the section on diagnosing Starting Circuit problems. "On all new models from Daytona 675 onwards, which use a CAN connection between the instruments and the ECM, the engine will not crank if the instruments are disconnected." It may be that the full tank of fuel is causing a short in this circuit, or is causing a loose connector (?) to temporarily separate. Removing the tank and tracing this circuit to check the wires/connections might be worth the effort before taking it to a shop. If this actually is happening, then I would think the 'real culprit' would be loose or missing bolts/nuts/spacers/bushings/etc. that attach the tank to the frame.

 

Have you had it long, or done any work recently?