Daytona 600 Front Brake

Hey folks,

This has already been covered but the front brakes on my Daytona,

Very soft lots of lever travel and not very confidence inspiring.

I've read about changing the master cylinder to one from a different bike but on the internet some of the information is a little vague, have any of you guys swapped it if you have what did you use?

As they are they're fine for the road but I'm hoping to do a track day or two before the end of the year and I want a consistent bite on the brakes.


Cheers

 

Your m/c is 14mm.
Most jap bikes for 4 pot calipers run the next size up (5/8").
You can try used but check 1st. If new can try yam yzf750. That is just m/c and not all un needed parts.

 

I'll look into this and hopefully get it sorted,

Thankyou

 

If It was me I'd look into a m/c from a D 675 (nissin radial). And new hose as they are different fittings. The suzuki gsxr are the same too. Brings it more up to date.
Street R and some speeds are the nissin also.

 

Your description sounds like a rebuild is more in order than a upgrade, no?

 

Stating the obvious but have you got all the air out.
I just put new pads on my Speed Triple and managed to get air in the system
I tried bleeding the calipers and master cylinder but was still very spongy and little feedback. For the last couple of evenings I have used a zip tie on the brake lever and each morning it is a bit better.
Could be worth a try.

Just sayin

 

I've seen and heard if people still having issues after rebuilding the master cylinder, as for air in the system the front brakes were fully bled when I swapped to braided hoses, so I'm going to say it's all out but I suppose giving them another bleed won't hurt?

 

Changing to 5/8" m/c is a well known upgrade on most triumphs.
You should have had braided hose as standard on your bike.

 

I did but I changed them to individual lines and rather than the loop over the mudguard, that helped forme a few days then the feel through the lever went vague again

 

Racing/2 lines dont make the brakes better. Only there for safety reasons.

 

Thats telling, if it " helped for a few days then went soft again ", you have a leak, either at your pistons seals, or at your banjos, try rebuilding with new washers, and seals where required.
If your lucky it may be a twisted seal and if you rebuild and clean, it may only cost for new washers ( about 2 quid)

 

I also had an issue with the front brake lever pulling too close to the handlebar grip even on the widest setting on the adjuster and eventually got round to thinking it might be something to do with the replacement lever I put on shortly after acquiring the bike a few years ago rather than the hydraulics. Fortunately I had kept the old lever assembly and comparing the two it was apparent that the small peg on the fulcrum section that pushes against the adjuster wheel was quite a bit smaller on the new lever. The original fulcrum piece was in o.k. condition so I swapped them over and the lever movement is just fine now.

 

Need 5/8" master cyl instead of 14mm. 1st thing we did racing them. That's the cure!