Oil

Discussion in 'Technical Help' started by Wolley, Feb 5, 2014.

  1. Wolley

    Wolley Member

    Nov 21, 2013
    8
    6
    Sussex
    Never owned a bike before three months ago so I no nothing about what oil should or should not look like after its been in an engine for a while. I was expecting it to be dark with a slightly gritty feel between my fingers, telling me it was past its best and really needed replacing.
    Image my surprise when I retract my dipstick and find that, instead of a sample of the blackgold that sent the world loopy a few generations ago, there was a covering of beige-grey froth wrapped around my probe.
    My question is, is this what motorcycle engine oil should look like?
    When rubbed between your fingers it feels smooth with no grit in it and it smells like oil should, but why is it frothy and beige-grey?
    Is that a transformation that occurs with fully synthetic oil? ( I have a Manual that states the best oil to use is Mobil 1 4T)
    Assuming my engine has not been filled with spray cream and will need rebuilding, what is the best (Multigrade) replacement for a 1999 tiger that's done 60,000 miles and isn't used that much?
     
  2. SteveJ

    SteveJ Super Moderator

    Aug 12, 2013
    524
    113
    North Hampshire
    Well it shouldn't look like that for a start, there maybe water getting into your oil ...without actually looking at it is a bit difficult to tell. check that there isn't any issues with your head gasket.

    Sounds like the sort of stuff I used to get as a blow back into the air cleaner in my Morris 1300 many moons ago.
     
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  3. Richard H

    Richard H Noble Member

    Oct 26, 2012
    1,132
    300
    Swadlincote Derbyshire England
    Oil Selector : Castrol Moto

    What the oil looks like after its been in the engine depends how long its been in there and how much the engine has been used; generally the blacker the older and more used it is as it gets contaminated.

    Oil should normally be clean semi-translucent and normally brown but some manufactures are coloured.

    If its thin watery and black it needs changing along with the filter, check for any debris that comes out the sump plug when you drop the oil.

    Seeing a beige - grey throth is not a good sign in engine oil, it normally indicates water getting into the oil; as the engine works the water and oil mix and emulsify to form the throth. It can indicate a head gasket gone but other things can cause it. If the bike has been stored for some time in the cold or done many short runs where the engine doesn't warm fully, condensation can occur inside the crankcases. Best thing to do is change the oil and filter NOW, flush the engine through with some cheap oil to ensure all the crap is out and then fill with semi or fully synthetic oil. Check the coolant level (if its low that is another bad sign). Run the bike up to temperature, check the oil and coolant levels, if the coolant is not going down and the new oil is not starting to look like salad dressing then things may be ok. Take it for a longer run and check again, any sign of emulsification of the oil then you will need to find out where the water is entering the oil (head gasket???) If you are lucky it may just be the result of standing a long time and lack of maintenance.
     
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  4. Wolley

    Wolley Member

    Nov 21, 2013
    8
    6
    Sussex
    That starts to piece together a picture of what could be happening.
    The bike is only used for a short journey twice a week, so the engine is never really heated up.
    Its stored outdoors in the cold under a cover for all the rest of the time.
    The oil should have been the first thing I changed, but I started to visualise what else could be checked once the engine was empty and never did anything except look at the level through the window on the tank.
    The coolant hasn't been changed either, but I have been checking its level ever since owning it and its never changed, so that bodes with the condensation theory. I'm glad someone mentioned that because I'd never have thought of it.
    My plan now is to drain the oil and reuse what can be reused for the sake of flushing the emulsified rubbish out, before doing as you suggested and running it on some cheap oil to see if it manifests itself again.
    Over what sort of time frame does that process take place?

    What are the facts about the head gasket?
    If water was entering the engine via the head gasket would that water have to come from the radiator?
    And would it necessarily be the case that you would notice a difference in the level of coolant in the reservoir?
     
  5. PeteH

    PeteH Active Member

    Oct 1, 2013
    57
    28
    Chester
    Tigers like ours suffered from leaking head gaskets, mine just leaked out at the rear of the engine but only when it got really cold, any leak will show up as a fall in reservoir fluid.
    A dip stick is not standard figment on the 885i as it has window to show the level of oil....best warm the bike before dropping the oil, also best not to re use any old oil, run it with cheap semi if need be to clean it out then use a decent semi or full synthetic.
     
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  6. SteveJ

    SteveJ Super Moderator

    Aug 12, 2013
    524
    113
    North Hampshire
    Have you checked to see if there is any oil in the radiator? usually a very good sign that the head gasket is gone.

    It sounds like your bike hasn't had any fluids changed for a while so it also might be worth looking at brake fluids and fork oil as well as they never get changed and it does make a difference when done.

    Cheers

    Steve
     
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  7. Wolley

    Wolley Member

    Nov 21, 2013
    8
    6
    Sussex
    My greatest concern is getting all of the contaminated residue out of the engine. Its so different in density to the oil that's supposed to lubricate it, my fear is that its congregated above the oil level, on the engines ceiling. (I don't know what happens to the oil once the engines turned on. I imagine its similar to a food blender, where there are parts of the chamber that will, by the nature of the design, never come into contact with what's being pushed around) This was the reasoning behind the idea of reusing the old oil. Leave the filter in, drop the oil, separate the liquid from the froth, (using tissue or rag) then refill with what liquid was left over, run the engine for a bit and then when its cooled down again, undo the oil drain plug and see how much more of the froth comes out with the next drop.
    Then the cheap semi synthetic goes in with a new filter to check that the mixing doesn't occur again.

    I had plans to change the coolant, I'll check for oil in what comes out.
     
  8. PeteH

    PeteH Active Member

    Oct 1, 2013
    57
    28
    Chester
    The trouble with potentially water contaminated oil is that it will still have water in it, you could always use a cheapo mineral oil for flushing purposes....
     
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  9. SteveJ

    SteveJ Super Moderator

    Aug 12, 2013
    524
    113
    North Hampshire
    • Like Like x 1
  10. Wolley

    Wolley Member

    Nov 21, 2013
    8
    6
    Sussex
    #10 Wolley, Feb 6, 2014
    Last edited: Feb 6, 2014
    marvellous, priceless nuggets of information. Is this additive safe to use with fully-synthetic or semi-synthetic oil? The engines done 60000, so although I don't detect an ominous tapping noise coming from the engine, mixing some of that in with the final lubricant cant be a bad thing.
    I'm actually out of work at the moment so this is squeezing me already, I need to find four litres of rubbish and then another four litres of quality oil.
    (gasp_! is this right? can I not just use, say, two litres of rubbish to flush the system and then three litres of Mobil 1 4T + one litre of The Marvel to use properly?)
    That is, of course, once I've determined there's nothing too drastically wrong with the chambers and the head gasket isn't leaking.
    I was hoping I could get some tips on what 'rubbish' is safe to use? At the bottom end of the market there's stuff called 'motorway oil'
    URL="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/COMMA-MOTORWAY-MINERAL-OIL-20W50-20-50-4-5L-/221282969306?pt=UK_Vehicle_Oils_Lubricants_Fluids&hash=item33857e26da"
    It says its for high mileage petrol or diesel engines that are not Turbo Charged. What is the script when it comes to the difference between Motorcycle and Car/lorry oil?
    The bike has an injection system to consider as well, could even a brief encounter with some oils effect components associated with that?
     
  11. Richard H

    Richard H Noble Member

    Oct 26, 2012
    1,132
    300
    Swadlincote Derbyshire England
    The main reason that bikes use higher performance oils is that in general the oil in a bike works harder and there is normally less volume of it than in say a lower revving car petrol or diesel engine. My little Yamaha WR 250 F has a high performance high reving race engine that only contains 1.5L of oil which must be changed after every race or every 800 miles and uses fully synthetic.

    Just be careful as to what oil you do put in as some car oils have friction reducing additives that can play havoc with motorcycle wet clutches causing slippage, in my opinion I would buy any cheap semi synthetic oil sold as motorcycle oil to flush with then re-fill with a quality semi or fully synthetic motorcycle oil. Others may have their opinions but I personally would not put car oil in even for a short time.
     
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  12. PeteH

    PeteH Active Member

    Oct 1, 2013
    57
    28
    Chester
    Ditto that:upyeah:
     
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  13. SteveJ

    SteveJ Super Moderator

    Aug 12, 2013
    524
    113
    North Hampshire
    Agree with Richard buy yourself some basic motorcycle oil and marvel mystery oil and run it for a while then change it for the good stuff. but first you need to check if there is an issue with your head gasket as if so you are just going to continue to have the same problem again so get that sorted first before you look at changing the oil.

    The Marvel Mystery Oil is also good for putting in you fuel tank it cleans up carbs and injectors as well.
     
  14. Wolley

    Wolley Member

    Nov 21, 2013
    8
    6
    Sussex
     
  15. Wolley

    Wolley Member

    Nov 21, 2013
    8
    6
    Sussex
    I go along with what your saying RichardH, you've obviously had many years experience with these machines and sometimes cutting corners just isn't worth the aggravation. I'm quietly confident the Head Gasket isn't the issue, only because my coolant level hasn't changed in three months.
    It was interesting reading more about the Marvel fuel additive and I must again eat my hat, because I now discover you can use it in oil as well as fuel, incredible.:cool:
     
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  16. Stavros

    Stavros New Member

    Mar 3, 2014
    3
    1
    Glasgow
    About 10 years ago I had a Divvy 600 which had the same problem as you , grey sludge when you test the dipstick.
    That was a case of not getting it up to temp with a short run to work in the morning, it got better in the summer, but the best thing is find a long route to work and enjoy. ;-)
     
  17. Wolley

    Wolley Member

    Nov 21, 2013
    8
    6
    Sussex
    I like the long adjective Stavros, I'm convinced that is what was up with the oil in my Tiger, turns out that when I dropped the oil it wasn't as bad I had first feared. there wasn't the level of contamination I had anticipated. There was no oil in the coolant either, allaying my worries that a seal may have perished. If the bike doesn't get hot when used condensation occurs in the engine. It feels ten times better now its had a change of oil, the gear changes are that much more cushioned, there's not the same abrasiveness under foot. :wink:
     
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