Troublesome Daytona!

Well I am after advice on my 'new' bike a Triumph Daytona 955i 1998 model. This bike was bought by my friend a few months ago and it has always been a little temperamental starting. When trying to start it it will sometimes turn over fairly slowly, he found that if he flicked the kill switch off and on again it would then turn over much faster and start? We have cleaned the contacts on the switch, fitted a new gel battery, and finally fitted a starter motor (good second hand one) we also changed the plugs for a new set and there is a good spark. Two weeks ago it wouldn't start (Starter turned over slowly but wouldn't fire up) Just about flattened the battery trying and gave up. Charged the battery again and still no luck. After fitting the starter motor today it did the same and then there was a strong smell of fuel as it wasn't trying to fire. We have tried a battery direct to the starter and it still turns over slowly. It is not seized as the engine will turn over when pushed in gear. (hard work for a small guy!) After some advice we checked the 'sprag' clutch and it seems to be working as it can be turned with the finger anti clockwise but will not turn clockwise. My friend has given up on it and given me the bike rather than hit it with something really heavy! The bike is fitted with a Datatool alarm system but we don't think this has anything to do with the problem (Even though it is a pain) Has anyone any ideas what the problem is as we have come to a full stop.

 

No we haven't tried it with the plugs out. The bike was bought from a dealer and it did take a bit of starting when we went to buy it but he said it had been stood for a while and the battery was flat. Since then it has been starting (mostly) and running fine. He has had no other issues with it and when it is running it is fine. It had a full service history but we do not know if there was any problems from the previous owner.

 

Well we have tried turning the engine over with the plugs out and it turns over quickly. This tells me that it is not an electrical problem. Searching on the internet i came across a posting on another forum of a guy with the same problem and it turned out to be a seized camshaft bearing after the bike had overheated. I think I will have to look into taking the cam cover off and having a look there. Another suggestion was the sprag clutch but this seems to be ok as putting a finger in the starter hole it can be turned anti clockwise but locks tight when turned clockwise (Which I assume is correct) There does seem to be some play on the sprocket back and forth but I assume that is normal due to the design of the starter clutch? (We are both bald now after tearing out our hair)

 

Right, today I took the cam cover off to see if it was the cams tight. I cracked each one in turn and then cranked the engine over on the starter....no difference it is still slow. At one point it gave a clatter sound and the cams were struggling to turn and just juddering back and forth. (As if the battery was flat trying to turn the engine) I had the bike on a jump starter so it wasn't flat. To me it sounded like the starter was slipping on the teeth of the gear? The starter sprocket and the 'sprag' clutch sprocket teeth are fine as I inspected them through the hole and the starter was recently installed. It did seem like the starter was sort of slipping to me but I know nothing about these 'sprag' clutches? i have read on a couple of places on the internet that slow turnover is due to a 'sprag' clutch fault but there are so many conflicting views on this.
oh forgot to ask! where would be the best place to turn the crank? should I remove the clutch cover or the water pump?

 

Well guys, I had some time today to do a bit of dismantling. I removed the cam cover and the clutch cover and took out the plugs. With a spanner on the end of the crank shaft it turns over with ease! The only resistance I encountered was the compression of the valves (which is normal) In between the valves compressing I could turn the engine with one finger easily. Now I really am confused? Could it be that the sprag clutch is just starting to slip so the starter revs are just slightly slower than the driven shaft? Problem is it is such a b*ll ache to get to the sprag clutch as the engine has to be out and the cases split! It is a shame the design didn't allow for an inspection hatch or an easier way of removal. :-(

 

Yes that is how I normally start it. I know the clutch lever has a isolator on it.

 

Well we have given up on this now and are going to advertise it for spares or repair! i haven't got the money to throw at it and if it is the sprag clutch it is going to cost a fortune in parts. I don't like to admit defeat but there is are too many electronics on these which could even be part of the problem. Will put the money towards an older bike that is easier to repair.

 

Well I am happy to say you have made my day P19DJG by calling me a youth! You have made a 57 yr old man very happy indeed. It isn't that I have no staying power it is just down to the fact that it is going to cost big money that I just can't afford. i have another bike (an old non electronic one) that I use so the Daytona is no real loss to me as it was a gift anyway. I am also just too busy to have this sitting around in my workshop for a long time. (I am self employed and time is money) I do thank all you guys for the help.