TRIUMPH Booster Plug

Hi folks,

I would appreciate your advice on this:

http://www.squaredeals-ltd.co.uk/tr...he-power-just-plug-and-play--enjoy-4687-p.asp

I have a standard 2011 SE and overall I'm happy with it the way it is other than the way it behaves at low throttle and this device would be ideal but I have a few queries regarding such a device on a standard motor with all the emissions gubbins still intact. Would a device that enriches the mixture not have a detrimental affect on the catalyst in the exhaust and instead of an increase in performance over the long term could I expect to see a decrease in performance due to the cats becoming blocked/damaged.

Your collective thoughts/input would be much appreciated.

 

Why would you want it to run rich.... use the proper map for optimised power/torque as per tune ecu.

 

Thanks for the reply Carter. The Bonnie runs weak to pass the EU emissions test. I'm really just after getting it running less ropey at low throttle. From what I've read about remapping the ECU they are mainly concerned with mapping out AI, the labda sensors and changing the exhaust etc.

I do have Tune ECU and the cable but I'm very hesitant to install maps when all I'm interested in is making the machine run better at low revs if that makes sense.

 

I have seen these but passed it by.
I have a K&N air filter plus aftermarket exhaust, so I have my bike booked into Steve Jordan Motorcycles & Performance for a dyno run. There are no flat spots or anything to speak of, but with these changes, I think it would well do with a personal map.
I can expect a bill of £250-£300 but I can be confident it will be right and getting the best from my bike.
I am not going for drag race performance, just a smooth map to get a decent performance from my bike without exceeding factory specs.

 

Hi Eric, if I understand you correctly, what you want to improve is the low revs, low throttle opening performance of the engine?

It is useful to understand that this lack of smooth response at low throttle openings is caused by the AI system and the feedback from the O² sensors feeding back information to the ECU with the sole intention of the bike passing pollution control tests at the factory. This has nothing to do with MOT tests.

So to improve your low throttle opening response performance the very first thing you would be advised to do is remove the AI system completely and remove it from the tick box on the map using TuneECU and your cable.

 

Thanks for that Red but I was looking for a solution that meant not having to change the exhaust. I've looked at the Norman Hyde peashooters and almost put my hand in my pocket but I'm on a limited budget atm and like I've said I'm relatively happy with the performance etc. the worry is that changing maps and removing sensors and systems I could end up with a bike that runs great with the throttle wide open but may be a bastard at slow traffic speeds.

I know they are completely different beasts but I had a Vespa T5 and I changed the standard exhaust for a performance system and rejetted the carb and although it sounded like two stroke racer, set off and ran at high revs like a good un at lower revs it was impossible so I ended up back to standard again thus wasting time and money. I just don't fancy doing that again on a much larger scale

 

Nice one Biglad - so am I right in thinking I can just disable the AI like you advise and it should improve the low speed running characteristics?

 

YES !!!! And it won't cost you a penny !!!! If you can find a marble that is the correct size to block the AI pipe coming from the airbox, block the pipe then reinsert it into the airbox and go for a ride.

If disabling the AI doesn't do the full trick then move onto phase two and disconnect the 2 O² sensors and turn them off via TuneECU.

If you decide to do this let me know and I'll try my best to give you a step by step guide, OK?

 

Thanks for the advice Dave. That is what I'm looking for something simple that I can manage myself without changing the bike drastically all at once and ending up with something that has cost me a fortune and runs like a pig. I'm of the belief that if it's not broke don't fix it and the bike runs great apart from the slow speed throttle behaviour so I'll try to fix that. I've had the bike on the laptop and had a cursory look but not gone in depth. I may start by making a backup of the original map just in case. incidentally whilst it was on the laptop everything looked fine - revs, throttle position, temps etc.