Right guys I put a thread up the other week about my daytona running hot, well even today when it wasn't as hot as the weather has been of late the bike was still getting to 220 f no way this is right on the open road? I've changed rad as original had a hole in it, fitted new stat. Filled radiator via filler cap with vent screw removed from right hand side of radiator but no coolent came out of it so forced coolent through vent hole and filled expansion bottle. Went for ride bike still running hot. Let it cool expansion level had dropped so topped up and bike still running hot and yes I squeezed top tube off rad to try and shift air. When bike running you can see air bubbles going into expansion tank. Really at the end of my patience with this bike after leaving me stranded last night cause bloody triumph immobiliser decided to fuck up. Sorted now but can anyone shed some light on what to do about this overheating before I give up and sell the bike for scrap I'm that hacked off with it.
My new 765 did not start venting until after 8000 rpm threshold was passed. Are your fans running, and in the right direction? 220 might be normal for that motor. Is the sensor good? Borrow an IR temp gun?
Assuming the temp gauge is correct, the FIRST thing I would do is whip out the thermostat. It will do three things: A) make it run cold blooded so slow to warm up but at this time of year insignificant B) allow free circulation of coolant and ease clearance of any air locks C) see if a blocked (non functioning) thermostat is the (most likely) cause of the problem. Part no 36 on the attached accessed under cover 37. 675 Daytona .......not sure which model yours is but plumbing is generally similar.
No but was thinking that, cash a bit tight at moment so ordered a used one off ebay from a working bike
If you run it with the rad cap off you should see coolant being pumped back into the rad just below the filler neck via the bypass hose. should be a good fast flow.
chipmiester. If the bike is hot the water will come out. I would remove the thermostat and run it without see what happens like someone said. That way its operating all the time. Then check the pump. Regards Joe.
Is that when it is hot or cold. When cold with a thermostat in place, all the water will be coming through the bypass hose and you should see a good strong continuous flow just below the filler cap. If hot or with thermostat out , most of the water will be being pumped via the top hose into the top right of the radiator and you will not see this. The flow via the bypass hose will be reduced.
Is that when it is hot or cold. When cold with a thermostat in place, all the water will be coming through the bypass hose and you should see a good strong continuous flow just below the filler cap. If hot or with thermostat out , most of the water will be being pumped via the top hose into the top right of the radiator and you will not see this. The flow via the bypass hose will be reduced.
BTW I may be talking shit because I'm not familiar with the pipework layout on a 675 I'm going by my 1050.
When warm/hot when you blip throttle water will overflow out of cap opening. I got a feeling pump may be shagged?
Well that sounds to me like the pump is working ok unless you have a head gasket failure and combustion products are forcing the water to overflow but if that were the case you would be able to smell it and see the gas bubbles. You do mention alot of bubbles coming through at the beginning of this thread.
Yeh if I watch expansion bottle you can see bubbles coming through, I've now topped up expansion bottle 3 times but can't see any leaks anywhere?? The bike overheated due to hole in rad a couple of weeks ago, I fitted another rad and changed oil which looked fine. I'm going to fit new hoses, water pump and spark plugs so may be worth doing head gasket too?
