from the ashes rose a Phoenix

Hi Capt.
Yes, I have used the 'disintegrators' for many years in the plastics injection toolmaking industry.
The earliest machine I ever saw was called a 'Tap Blaster' which was basically for spark eroding broken taps out.
The technical terminology is E.D.M. (Electrical Discharge Machining) or more commonly known as spark erosion and applies to both 'die sinking' with solid electrodes or tubing and wire erosion machinery.
Not a cheap solution unless you know someone with a machine.
If the cylinder head has to be removed it would be cheaper to accurately drill out the stud on a press drill or milling machine.
The thread will need re-tapping whichever option is used

 

Hi Mick,
Yes I was Lucky ! I knew someone with an E.D.M. I was in the Australian Army as a Mechanic, stationed in Brisbane. My unit was a huge Workshops (300+ in strength) the Fitters (Engineering section) had two machines, one for small jobs other for much bigger work. Used the smaller one with a 1.2mm or so blasting rod, on the 6mm stud - I got lucky, didn't need to use a heli-coil just needs to clean out the threads with a thread tap. Took best part of 1/2hr to align it up, checking every setting over and over. I think I used a fairly moderate flow rate and lower amp setting, fed the rod in manually. As the work was a personal one, the only trained operator wouldn't do it just gave guidance. Went well enough, I sold the bike 3yrs later with 77,000 or so klms up, had just 15,000 when the exhaust stud snapped. I was up grading the whole exhaust system. The original was 3 into 2 , the middle pipe split evenly into the two outers, the system I went for split in two but the joins to the two outer pipes was staggered. One side much closer to the head and other much closer to muffler, it gave better scavenging to centre cylinder and outers too. Had Jota replica mufflers on it (1982/3 Laverda RGS 1000 , 120degree crank) It was loud and very very fast ! Did over 300kph!

 

Hi there would really advise thread extractor as best route, the problem with drilling out is that the stud is in an alloy head, you need to be very very precise when drilling out otherwise when the drill "wanders into the alloy it will follow the path of least resistance that being the alloy head.

Be very surprised if you cant get out with set of thread extractors and plus gas.

File broken stud flat. Dot punch the broken stud first start with small drill, get helper to check you are drilling straight drill a good way into the stud as this will help the stud collapse a little too, work up to say a 6mm drill then get thread extractor in use a socket or ideally a chuck wrench to work the extractor in not a spanner as this just works the extractor off centre.

If you have to end up drilling out and re-tapping be very careful i have had experience of this before and ended up taking head of and helicoils fitted !!

Btw tapping drill size for 8mm is 7 mm

 

Great work Jennoe and great input from the forum fanatics.
Looks like Dozers Dads magic potion has helped.

 

DD, we are not worthy. lol

 

Tugging,mmmmmmmmmmmmm. Naaaaaaaaaaa, will just curtsey

 

There could be several reasons for not reporting back on the results.
1) Executed by their partner for stealing the nail removing acetone.
2) Overcome with Inhalation of acetone fumes.
3) Burnt down their premises
4) Still working on removing the melted blob of plastic that used to be their fairing, windshield, side panels, seat, dust caps, indicators, headlamp 'glass', rear light cluster and wiring loom.

 

Most definitely.
Objective achieved!

On second thoughts, NO!
The bike was removed from the stud.

 

http://www.advantage-motorsport.co....VqoZs-KQPEPeFcnaiwxXgmVDpLPxZ7hlrQaAllR8P8HAQ
try this

 

this would be my first port of call too before going any further

 

Forget the torque wrench with stuff like this Jennoe.
The entire area is fatigued and weakened, better just to rely on finger tip sensing with a standard T bar and socket plus the gasket crush.
Could the strange popping and banging be residue of acetone ? It is highly flammable.
Good luck mate.

 

Saw an episode over Xmas

I think you need to get back to the basics Jennoe.
1) Are you getting a good regular spark ?
2) Is fuel being delivered correctly ?
3) Is the carburation clean and correctly set ?
4) Is the ignition timing correctly set ?
4) Will she bump start ? It may be the starter motor or associated wiring is at fault if the engine is slow to turn.

 

is the battery new ? Have had bikes before with batteries past there best which would turn over although produce enough power for spark? Think new battery be best place to start if your sure carbs ok