Trophy Bar risers retro fit

don't know for sure, but having seen a bonneville and trophy side by side, I think the bonneville yokes may be narrower. A pair of Thunderbird 900 yokes will drop straight in.

 

Yeah that's the one. It's a Thunderbird Sport yoke there which i think you need if you still have the standard tank. I have fitted a Thunderbird tank to mine as well so the 'non-sport' yoke doesn't hit the tank on lock. But look for one that's not crushed...

You'll also get to retain your ignition switch/steering lock with it too. The offset is a couple of millimetres less than the trophy bottom yoke, so you should swap both top and bottom yokes. Or if you can't go to the expense of both yokes, open out the top yoke's bore for the steering stem so it fits. (but this will probably give the many engineers of this forum kittens)

The configuration of the top yoke is really only a means of fixing the handlebars to the tops of the forks so milling-out the stem hole won't leave the possibility of any play to develop in the headstock.

 

The easiest way might be to get some short pieces of short hollow bar and use longer bolts.

 

I want to raise and bring backwards the bars on my '94 1200 Trophy. I can't see why you cant just drill the flatpart of the top yoke and fit any number of after-market risers according to how much you want to change the bar's position. Risers, straight, curved , tall short are available in MotoX and trials accessory shops, or even people like custom chrome and wwcycles

Depending how much slack in the cables and lines there is, but you don't even have to remove the original top-of-the forkleg mounted jobs. might look a bit odd but Im going to do this to experiment with different bar shapes and styles .
I find getting the right bars style and position is a couple hundred kms test, not just round the block.

 

The metal is about 5mm thick where you have to drill through the yoke to attach the risers. I don't think that's enough considering the forces going through the yoke every time you accelerate and brake. The yoke I fitted is around 15mm thick in this area.

 

Fair comment, .50 cal, but with sufficient spacers and even some flat plate under the yoke I still think it'd be OK. In a wreck it might give , but then it could save more substantial damage. I've done similar mods on competition bikes and I'm not so sure there's a big load of stress in those circumstances on those components. I have a pair of Marzocci forks in a Aprilia top yoke that ( I haven't miked it) on a classic Husquervana scrambler that I bet I bet isn't much more thick than the Trump's top yoke That machine takes some abuse and the last thing so far to give out so far isn't the risers. in my 'umble opinion

 

Just done a riser job.... but not as above.
Basically drilled and tapped two 8mm holes in the top yoke, on the same radii to the forkleg as the standard two......That is, undid the two mounting bolts , rotated the handle bar back til the holes aligned between the two original. The bar on full lock doesn't touch the tank as long as the end nob things aren't there. then slid the the bar up the leg 25mm and fitted it all with 60mm s s bolts, 25mm spacer and a locknut under the yoke. It has brought the end of the bars back about 75mm and up 25mm. No mods to any harness or hydraulics. cost the price of four stainless 60 x 8 socket head bolts.
Not an ideal solution but Im testing it this weekend on a 1000km easy round trip over four or five days

In a perfect world I would bring the bars back and up and parallel relative to their original position.
This has brought the ends of the bars closer to the body of the bike. so wrists are are angled a bit more than standard.

Got some other stuff to ak about so go see my new thread here

 

just seen this thread. can you post a pic, sounds interesting coz many have asked this question. you could have drilled the top yoke as you said,others have done so, you use Tiger or similar fittings.

 

Hi Sprintdave, I notice that you've not had a reply to this thread, but... I'm wanting to change my handlebars to 7/8" chrome jobbys as I'm a short little bugger. I too have thought about simply drilling the top yoke and bolting a couple of single bolt risers through. Sound like you may know of folk who have done this - I'd appreciate any advice you could give me. Many thanks, Des.

 

Hi Des,
All the guys I have seen do this mod were doing it on Sprints or Tridents, basically the older T300 bikes. I would guess a lot depends on the thickness of the metal of the yoke on your bike,obviously it has to be very strong as the last thing you want is a failure while riding, doesnt bear thinking about. There are two raised round areas underneath the yoke on some Sprint/Trident models and the idea is to drill into the thicker metal. You have to be exact tho so the steering is straight.
Just had a look for tt600 and I see it has a fairing, higher bars may well foul the fairing which is an mot fail i believe.
Sorry i cannot help any more than that,maybe someone can give you other suggestions,ie adjustable bars etc

 

Ta for that Dave - I've actually got a 1992 900 Trophy

 

To be honest Dave, I've had the same misgivings re strength, and have looked at the converstion offered on 'sprint manafacturing'. It's £119.00 and only held in place by the stem nut and 2x 10mm cap head bolts. I think I'll try drilling, and keep and very close eye for radial cracks. Thank you very much for you reply and advice.

 

Hi Des, I have the Sprint mfg converter on my Sprint. Very well made and a perfect fit. I dont think there is any danger of it coming adrift,the stem nut and two bolts seem more than adquate. I have renthal medium superbike bars on and the rise and pull back is good for me. I did have adaptors for the top of the fork legs 43mm bought from M and P for around 70 quid but it was a bit of a stretch and I sold them on, hence the Sprint mfg version.
Sorry mate I assumed it was for the tt600, wasnt aware you had a Trophy too. Good luck with your conversion.

 

They do look well made Dave for sure, but my point was that as I see it - it's only the two small 10mm bolts that take the strain left to right turning the bars, therefore to drill and fit risers should be ok... we'll see! Thanks again.