Tubed tyres?

Hi Chris, re the whole tubed versus tubeless debate. I used to have a 2010 T100 with a variety of engine mods and she would really go.

One day I was out for a ride and the handling seemed to be gradually going off, I stopped when it was safe to do so and sure enough there was a screw in the middle of the back tyre. I very gently rode on for about 1 kilometer as I knew there was a garage nearby. The screw was removed, the tube was repaired and I was on my way.

The tyre was pretty worn so I had it replaced with a new tube at the same time.

Overall the blowout was not as sometimes depicted a scary totally immediate affair, but a rather gentle and manageable breakdown.

Having experienced the same thing with tubeless tyres I would say there is little difference in the 'drama' factor - the most significant difference is in the temporary repair phase. Easier to do on a tubeless tyre with an aerosol can of jollop, as opposed to wheel/tyre/tube removal.

Honestly there is no greater danger factor with spoked wheels. PLus if you really want, there are loads of Youtube vids to show you how to convert them for tubeless tyre operation.

 

It's maybe just good luck but I've counted up roughly the miles I've covered with Tubeless tyres on bikes over the years and I've averaged one puncture every 70,000 miles. The mileage on the new T120 was sitting at exactly 1503 when I went to wheel it out a couple of weeks ago and you guessed it - FLAT TYRE.

The tubed tyres were my biggest misgiving about the Triumph before I bought it and they still are. With tubeless wheels I can easily plug a puncture anywhere and at least get home. With tubes it's game over and phone for breakdown recovery. I've lost count of the amount of punctures I had before tubeless tyres and wheels were commonly available and it can't all be down to chance.

I remember my mate in the seventies with his T120V never went anywhere without pockets full of tools to deal with the inevitable breakdown. The bikes may be more mechanically reliable these days but the fact that silencers have to be removed to get the rear wheel off, coupled with there being no effective toolkit supplied with the bike is just not acceptable in my view. A bent piece of bar that's only function seems to be adjusting the rear shock pre-load just doesn't cut it.

While I'm having a rant, Triumph go to great lengths to push their accessories and then can't supply them. I picked my bike up in August at which time I ordered a rear carrier only to be told there weren't any available. I was informed they would be available in October but now I'm told it might be late November! Not acceptable - like a restaurant taking your booking only to tell you that the advertised menu is off.

This is my first Triumph and while I really like the bike I very much doubt I'll ever buy another.

PS.. I've only ever had one instantaneous deflation and that was on a front wheel of a Kawasaki triple in the seventies. Luckily I wasn't going quickly and didn't crash. Most other tubed punctures have been slow deflations.

 

Another difference in that comparison is the tubed one was on the front and the tubeless was on the back.

 

Linking to an earlier thread I started has anyone replaced their tyres on a T120 yet. Mine are just going off so wondering wether to go like for like phantoms (tubed) or something else ???

 

Hello John, I would recommend Avon AM26 back and front. I had them on my T100 and did thousands of miles on them in all weathers. Good grip wet or dry, excellent long-lasting tyres - and reasonably priced.

 

I have always used Ultraseal in my tubeless tyres and had the same concerns on tubes puncturing on my new T120. After much research and questioning, I established that Ultraseal was beneficial also in tubed tyres and my main dealer added this to my tubed tyres when I picked up the new bike. Time will tell if it has been helpful. My attitude was use belt and braces if it helps to minimise a puncture.