Adding on from my previous post ,trying to find the regulator so i could check system , i have finaly sussed the issue , after it broke down on me . I had scoped the crank sensor earlier ,had a reasonable wave pattern but wasnt completly satified it was good as it looked a bit ragerty ,but there was a signal and a 4v output which for cranking ,is good ,but injectors or coils not getting a signal . Checking the stator to ground , there was continuity , should not be so , So took off the stator from engine , still had continuity to ground , bloody odd !. Stripped out the wiring that runs behind the gearbox sprocket and wiring to stator and crank sensor all crispy and burnt ,mystery finaly solved . New rotor is over £400 and i think not changing the regulator rectifier too , would bite me on the ass later Bike is 2 and half years old 7000 miles ,seems a bit crap this occuring , is this a known issue or a recall item for triumph , or just my very bad luck . Anyone else had or seen this Glad this did not happen on euro trip this year .
No recalls on this fault ,so bit the bullet and ordered new stator which comes complete with crank sensor and wireing £300 ,not as bad as i feared . Rectifier is toast too ,so being reserching into what best to replace with . The original is a shindengen fh 020 aa mosfet , a great normally reliable bit of kit , but i fear because of location completly being boxed in behind the engine with no airflow , its an accident waiting to happen again . After much research into this i am going to upgrade it too a shindengen sh847 which is a series type as opposed to shunt of the Shindengen 020 AA original. Not cheap £200 ,but i dont want to be always worrying is it going to let me down again . The shunt type have the stator on max power all the time ,and regulates it down by shunting excess to earth This can build up a lot of heat in stator and reg . Series Type only switches on the stator when current rerquired , so charging system is under a lot less stress and heat buildup. Scrambler has a max output of 33 amps , the Shindengen 775 series max is 35 , so opting for the 50 amp 847 ,which will allow a good amount of leeway, its a wee bit larger . Im still loathed to put it back in the stuffy box at the back of the engine but to mount it in a more airy location . Think i will settle on engine frame below swingarm ,there isnt many places to put it .Trialed it with some cable ties ,to see how it might fit ,or i could just cut more ventalation holes in the boxing in panel . There are loads of cheap reg recs knock offs on amazon and ebay ,so buyers beware , go for genuine only .
My Armstrong MT 500 originally had it's RR under the right hand side panel which as you note above certain locations aren't ideal for airflow. The replacement upgraded unit runs directly under the headlight in the full airflow as you travel so much better. As time goes on with emission control, abs etc especially on a motorbike, rather than a car, it does make you wonder if the manufacturers are running out of space for soundly engineered solutions so ends up a bit like pin the tail on the donkey.
Your right there ,it has to share the same small space as the abs ECU too. I love the analogy of the pin the tail on the donkey lol
George, thanks a bunch for the info; any idea of what happened to the original cable? Looks like it was located near the sprocket and maybe damaged in that area? On another note, I think that replacing key components is a good idea so no worries; I'm not nuts about after market products - no luck with those and would rather spend the $ and get good stuff; I don't know where the rectifier is on my Bonnie 1200 but you getting airflow is a good idea.
cable runs in a plastic channel just behind sprocket ,and was still securely inside it , did find a sharp bit of casting on the engine block ,which could have chaffed it ,or it might have been made when it shorted to the case , guess i will never know ,it doesnt seem to be a common fail point . Bike had been ideling stationary for 5 mins just before it cut out on me and the heated grips were on , regulator could have overheated and lost control of current and everthing got cooked . New rotor 300£ ,regulator £200 ,Dont want this happening again . Extra insulation for cabling . I got a piece of 5mm aluminium for a heat sink and connected it too frame tube which had a couple of spare bolt holes ,and wired a 30 amp resettable fuse to protect the system . Plenty of fresh air there to keep it cool , it should be out of the way of dirt being flung off the rear wheel , but may fit a guard . Took the opportunity to do my valve clearances whilst it was all in bits , some where just on the limit ,so reshimmed . Its a doddle to do as you only have to take off two 8 mm bolts and the cam followers lift off . Also took the paint off the cam cover and polished it up ,to match the engine casings previously polished .
