1998 Daytona T595 No Spark

zackx13734 · Aug 23, 2023

I have a 1998 Triumph Daytona T595 that sat for about 6 months because it had a fuel pump issue, I picked it up cheap so I wasn't really worried about it. 20k miles on the odometer and bought it from someone I trust and will continue to trust or not trust depending on how this goes. To start. He lost the fuel pump in his recent move, no problem, I scoured the internet and acquired a new fuel pump assembly, in rather remarkable condition and installed it to the tank, after some testing, it appears to be in working order, has proper psi and holds pressure after the key is turned off, so I'm assuming the injectors are good in the fact they have no leak down issues. I have an extra set just in case. The problem:
I installed the fuel pump, new fuel lines and other stuff and figured well shoot, the bike should start, so I threw a new battery in and cranked and cranked and cranked and nothing. Didn't start. I then removed the tank, and the air box and pulled a coil and spark plug, set it next to frame and cranked the bike, no spark.
I figured well shoot that can't be good. I pulled out my test light, hooked it up to the ground and tested the coil plug, and for the first three-ish seconds of the key being on, the test light has power. which I thought meant I should have spark, figuring the coil and or coils are bad, or the spark plugs are bad, I opted the easy route and purchased a set of ngk plugs, and after digging on the forums, found out that a set of 1995 volvo 960 coils work on this neat little bike if you switch the boot and springs over from the triumph coils. did just that. and no spark still.
Weird things that I started to notice, I have no neutral indicator light, and the bike only cranks with the clutch depressed, even if it's in neutral. I think it might a faulty neutral indicator switch, but seeing how this bike sat outside for 6 months, the ignition switch is also a little crusty, and sometimes gives me iffs, where I have to wiggle the key in the on position to get power, so to me its a toss up between the ignition switch, kill switch and the neutral switch, and I was wondering if anyone had any tips or information that might aid me before I go spend upwards of $300 in parts. If its the ignition switch, I was thinking of opting for a triumph wireless key fob so I only need to push a button on the keyfob to start the bike, where as the igntion switch becomes the main way of locking the bike. if it's the kill switch, it's an easy replacement, not bad, I've seen decent ones on ebay for about $30 and if it's the neutral switch, it's again only like $70. I'm not quite sure if it's the neutral switch though, because i've read sometimes it causes no spark, sometimes the bike will only run with the clutch depressed, and sometimes the bike will have a hard time starting with the stand down in neutral with. I do apologize about the long post, I just wanted to get everything out there!

zackx13734 · Aug 23, 2023

zackx13734 said: ↑

I have a 1998 Triumph Daytona T595 that sat for about 6 months because it had a fuel pump issue, I picked it up cheap so I wasn't really worried about it. 20k miles on the odometer and bought it from someone I trust and will continue to trust or not trust depending on how this goes. To start. He lost the fuel pump in his recent move, no problem, I scoured the internet and acquired a new fuel pump assembly, in rather remarkable condition and installed it to the tank, after some testing, it appears to be in working order, has proper psi and holds pressure after the key is turned off, so I'm assuming the injectors are good in the fact they have no leak down issues. I have an extra set just in case. The problem:
I installed the fuel pump, new fuel lines and other stuff and figured well shoot, the bike should start, so I threw a new battery in and cranked and cranked and cranked and nothing. Didn't start. I then removed the tank, and the air box and pulled a coil and spark plug, set it next to frame and cranked the bike, no spark.
I figured well shoot that can't be good. I pulled out my test light, hooked it up to the ground and tested the coil plug, and for the first three-ish seconds of the key being on, the test light has power. which I thought meant I should have spark, figuring the coil and or coils are bad, or the spark plugs are bad, I opted the easy route and purchased a set of ngk plugs, and after digging on the forums, found out that a set of 1995 volvo 960 coils work on this neat little bike if you switch the boot and springs over from the triumph coils. did just that. and no spark still.
Weird things that I started to notice, I have no neutral indicator light, and the bike only cranks with the clutch depressed, even if it's in neutral. I think it might a faulty neutral indicator switch, but seeing how this bike sat outside for 6 months, the ignition switch is also a little crusty, and sometimes gives me iffs, where I have to wiggle the key in the on position to get power, so to me its a toss up between the ignition switch, kill switch and the neutral switch, and I was wondering if anyone had any tips or information that might aid me before I go spend upwards of $300 in parts. If its the ignition switch, I was thinking of opting for a triumph wireless key fob so I only need to push a button on the keyfob to start the bike, where as the igntion switch becomes the main way of locking the bike. if it's the kill switch, it's an easy replacement, not bad, I've seen decent ones on ebay for about $30 and if it's the neutral switch, it's again only like $70. I'm not quite sure if it's the neutral switch though, because i've read sometimes it causes no spark, sometimes the bike will only run with the clutch depressed, and sometimes the bike will have a hard time starting with the stand down in neutral with. I do apologize about the long post, I just wanted to get everything out there!
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What i mean by no nuetral indicator light, is that in neutral the nuetral light does not come on! sorry i forgot to clarify that

Mini · Aug 28, 2023

Hi Zac, you can ground out your neutral light switch and by pass it on the engine case, at least it will isolate it and let you know if it is the switch giving you a problem, sorry can't help more but it's a start !!! M

zackx13734 · Sep 7, 2023

I will try it this weekend! Things I've deduced so far, is there appears to be no damage leading up to the wires inside of the dash, and the wire leading off of the neutral switch appears to be in decent condition leading up to it's connection to the wiring harness. I pulled the connector off, and noticed that it was dirty, I mean really dirty. it was covered in sand, most likely from the fact that it sat in a really sandy area for 6 months, and after plugging the connector back in, it still didn't have spark unfortunately. I will try grounding it out, and go from there as I haven't had much time to work on the bike as of recent. I'll get back to you and let you know!