Speed Triple Engine Installation

Does anyone have any tips for refitting a 2010 Speed triple engine?
I have recently had a major gearbox failure and had to drop the engine to repair it.( I think that the previous owner liked clutch less changes).
Now that the repair is done, I'm having issues refitting it.
Here are few pictures of the gearbox if you are interested.
It's really annoying as I always have mechanical sympathy for my bikes.

 

It's actually more basic than that, my issue is lining up the engine mounts , I have managed to get the rear bolts in loosely, but when I jack up the engine, the cam cover doesn't clear the front frame mounts, and if you mount the front first, the rear mounts foul on the frame where it narrows for the drag link.
The manual says place on jack and line up mounts, easier said than done.

You are spot on about the tightening sequence, I thought this would be easy after the gearbox, plus I got it out so it must go in!

 

Yes, I released all the bolts after loosening the swinging arm and drag link as per manual.
The engine did hang up at the rear on the recess in the swinging arm, and had to be pulled forward, before dropping down.
with this in mind I have tried the reverse of this (As per all good manuals) but without success.
Possibly with a couple more people it should be possible to get it back in.
A close eye is needed on the exhaust mounting bracket on the right, as it can easily damage the crankcase at the back of the clutch.
I was hoping somebody may have a tried and tested technique before I struggle on.

 

It looks easy, but I really need a box of sky hooks

 

Yes, you would think, but I have tried that, and both ends foul.
My next move, when I have some extra muscle on Friday, is to lift the engine with the exhaust ports almost vertical, then once the front mounts are past the frame turn it toward the front of the bike and lower it down into position from above.
I will report back at the weekend how it went.

On the plus side, while the engine was out, I have done the 12k valve check and shim with great ease

The exhaust were spot on at 0.25 but a couple of the inlet were 0.11 so I have re-shimmed then to the upper tolerance.

 

Yes I agree it's a strange one, when I removed it, I had a jack underneath it, removed all the bolts, lowered the jack and it stayed in place!
So a lot of pushing and pulling ensued, it appeared to be caught in the recess at the front of the swinging arm, eventually it dropped down.
I think that because the bike was on the floor held up by an Abba stand, it was that bit higher allowing more of angle on the engine.
Now on the bike lift with paddock stand it's a bit lower, meaning there is not enough height to turn the engine before it hits the frame.
Going to try and man handle it in on Friday without the jack underneath, so as to give more height. (With the help of a couple of friends)

 

I agree totally with your plan, I was hoping to report on how it went, but had to postpone fitting till Tuesday afternoon. (Tomorrow)
I am planning on using screw drivers instead of the bolts initially for speed if we are lifting by hand, then once in place (Fingers crossed) follow the correct sequence with the bolts and shims etc.

 

Happy to report that from about 20 minutes ago the engine is back in !!!!!

I thought that I would quickly write up what happened while it's fresh in my mind, so as it may help someone else in the future.

The main lessons are..........

You need three people, two reasonably strong.

With the bike on the ground or bike lift and using a rear paddock stand.

Place the engine on the floor or bike lift platform with just foam kneeling mat for protection underneath.

There is not enough room for the smallest of jacks or scissor lifts at this stage. (You won't get the engine to the required angle)

The engine then needs to be tilted back, so that the front engine mounts are at 11 o'clock.
Then with a person each side, lift the engine toward the front mounts, noting that the engine mounts are offset and both go to the right of the frame fixing points.
At the same time the third person places old Philips type screw drivers through the bolt holes and a jack or wooden block under the engine.

The screwdrivers are important because the go in quickly and give you wiggle room.

Now with a jack underneath, start to raise the rear of the engine, you will find it starts to just foul on the lower part of the frame near the drag link mounting, this is where the screwdrivers instead of bolts in the front mounts are a blessing, as they are half a bolt diameter thinner the engine can be pulled forward by the two people as the third winds the jack up just missing the frame.
NOTE ! The person on the jack also needs to put the chain over the output shaft, before the engine is fully up! And rear screwdrivers in.

Now replace the screwdrivers with bolts on the righthand side first, this is the side with the shims, being just on the screw drivers you can move the engine left a little to get the shims in, you may need to let the weight off the jack for this, and then bring it back into play for aligning the holes, we also had to push the engine back a bit.
On the righthand side the lower rear bolt has a spacer about 4mm thick between engine and frame, I found it too tight a fit to just push in, even though the lower drag link bolt was fully slack as per manual, but with a very gentle use of a small pry bar it slid in nicely.
The rest of the bolts just slid right in.

Time for a cold beer !

Then return with the torque wrench and tighten in sequence as per manual.

I hope that all make sense, and is helpful.

I think where I went wrong was trying to start with engine on the jack, and doing it on my own.

You MUST have 3 people AND use screwdrivers instead of bolts to start with (Obviously not cheap bendy ones) screwdrivers not friends that is.