Drive Sprocket & Tsa

As mentioned in your other thread - which I have sllightly and inadvertantly misunderstood - I think that what you've been told by the mechanic is somewhat illogical.

AFAIK the QS is just a momentary, electronic kill switch and shouldn't be in any way influenced by the gearing. The only constraint MIGHT be that the QS is designed/intended to work and be used at a certain minimum revs and that may feel different with a different front sprocket size. Shouldn't stop it working, though.

 

I think we might have to agree to disagree on minimum revs for use of the QS! I can't remember where I might have got the idea but I'm fairly sure that I was strongly advised by the person that fitted mine (a well known ex-racer and Triumph expert) not to use the the QS at low revs. Nothing specific (that I can recall) but,when you think about the fundamental purpose of the thing (the clue's in the name) it's about making fast gear changes to maintain and improve acceleration so I wouldn't, personally, naysay the 3,500 rpm minimum suggestion. Below that minimum it's use is of no practical benefit as far as I can see.

"...... hold revs to change up" I can fully understand and agree with but I'm a bit mystified by the 'zero throttle to change down' if you're linking this to a QS? Normal practice is, of course, to blip the throttle to change down and a QS won't do that unless it's a fully integrated, electronic QS/B. Zero throttle on downshifts will, of course, give you maximum engine decceleration by adding engine braking but will give you no benefit whatsoever in smooth gearbox use and progressive braking.

In the final analysis, it's your bike so you can do as you wish but I think you might want to investigate the issue a little bit further to clarify what your full requirements are.

 

Yep fully agree, my 765 has a Triumph quickshifter and I read the instructions somewhere that stated 4k minimum revs which makes sense.
Mines faultless in normal use and the only time I've unsettled it is when in traffic, preoccupied and changed at low revs.

 

JD, Adie is spot on with his summary, quickshifters are designed (on the upshift) to function at their best at higher revs, using a quickshifter at low speed can cause several issues, these vary from sticking in gear or unable to go from second to third, or fourth to fifth etc to false neutrals, a lot of people forget that motorcycle gearboxes do not have synchro meshes like cars do, so it is easy to get gearbox issues if not using a quickshifter (or the clutch ) correctly. I am always puzzled when people use a quickshifter at low speeds or whilst riding in towns, they are not designed for that, the quickshifter doesn't work well below 2500rpm minimum, so best not to use it for slow or as said in towns or cities. As many of us are aware it is a millisecond reduction in ignition that allows the gears to slot into position smoothly and, because the throttle is not "closed" the drivetrain can give you the next level of acceleration without any energy loss. The quickshifter cuts the ignition timing when it is under pressure from the gear lever, so effectively keep your foot away from the gearchange lever until you want to upshift. The auto-blipper improves the efficiency of your downshifting technique and increase the life expectancy of your drivetrain, like quickshifting, auto-blip lets you downshift without using the clutch, with a ride-by-wire throttle the system can electronically auto-blip the throttle plates, also your machine has "a slip assist clutch" so limits the possibility of rear wheel lock up. Your machine also has a "rev limiter" and I am puzzled why you think you have over revved the bike given the limiter would have kicked in. Swapping the sprocket will not make any difference whatsoever on the quickshifter/blipper, although it will affect the speedo readings. The up-and-down quickshifter is an accessory and not everyone likes them but used correctly they are great fun. I get the Tiger 660 is a touring machine rather than street sport, that said they can still be ridden spirited.

 

If this is the same shift assist that I have on my Street Triple as standard I don’t see how engine revs are relevant. Most of the above has been about going up the box.

Coming down the box the system will auto blip to sync gears before meshing.on a closed throttle. In fact it can baulk if you are demanding increased power and try to knock it down a gear.

I find that changing to higher gears on maximum throttle is no quicker than when I do it on my Ducati which has none of this electrickery but you have to master the technique of clutchless up changes.

Just an added afterthought. When moving away from or coming to a standstill I invariably use the clutch on up and down changes between 1st and 2nd because the difference in ratios is so great it can be a tad clunky. Also having ridden bikes without any of these frills my whole life until buying my new machine a year ago I fear that these accessories can encourage laziness in your riding techniques with new riders not bothering to master the art of rapidly changing down the box whilst breaking heavily, using all four limbs for five different functions. Great satisfaction to be had when done well.

 

Have a read from this link, I don't profess to be an expert on quickshifter's but do have a working knowledge, however Gareth Hopkins at HM is, he designed cutting edge technical advanced systems for government (including sophisticated military systems), before designing and producing his world class motorcycle quickshifters/blippers and much more. You can actually pick up the phone and contact HM for technical assistance (they are very helpful).
Motorcycle quickshifters: Are they safe, how do they work? (bennetts.co.uk)