So, here I am on holiday in Croatia And my mind wonders, from beer, to beach, to bikini, to boobs to beer, to triumph, bikini...and back to triumph.. And then to clutches (not crutches)..for now... and, while mindful of boobs, I wonder if I have made aboob with my Tiger cos of its sticky clutch (clutch!)? But have decided to not be beaten by boobs and grap this boob, and clutch (clutch!) with both hands and get on and have a good root around in the clutch (clutch!). Goodness, this beach is distracting... I will likely profer an order of works at a later date however, first things first... For my 2010 Tiger 1050 clutch investigation at the very least I'm going to need a new set of gaskets. Is anyone able to confirm which 3(?) that I'll need? Also, when replacing, are the gaskets all I need or do I need gasket seal as well? Here is the relevant page, I think from parts supplier: Items 9 and 22. Any others? https://www.worldoftriumph.com/coll...type=tiger-1050-from-vin-287504-to-vin-570058 To be continued (stop following now if you can't stand minutiae)! Thanks all
You will also need gasket item 20 as the crank cover also needs to be removed to gain access to one of the clutch cover bolts. How annoying is that! If I remember correctly I did once manage to remove that bolt using a cranked ring spanner which saves removing 2 covers and buying 2 gaskets. You should not need to use any sealant as long as the surfaces are clean & all traces of old gasket have been carefully removed. Enjoy the rest of your holiday
Thanks @TRIPLE X . I have some offset ring spanners...so will see if they fit. Hopefully I'll be able to crack one off as I dream of crutches... I mean clutches!
This forum is absolutely bloody amazing, as evidenced by @Iceman . Yet again the kindness of strangers is astounding! @Iceman PM sent, thank you! Although not the one about boobies, dreams really can come true!
So, I am elbow deep in having a go at this clutch investigation. Surprisingly all is going ok, except... The clutch cover has popped off and is loose, but will not actually come off it is caught some where, some how .. Is it the clutch actuator arm? Is it hooked over the pin I side somehow or something? I can't work it out... If I push the actuator arm round (clockwise) it "pulls " the cover on, so I'm thinking it needs moving somehow... Am I also having issue because the crashbar is in the way? It's a PITA to remove that....so, I'm hoping it isnt I hoped the cover would just pull off now...but it won't... Any thoughts?
I hadn't initially....but I am quite certain that I have now! It is totally loose...but just won't come all the way off...like it's stuck on the dowls or something ...
I haven't done one of these but on a zzr600 the following works as the arm has an internal claw which maybe your issue here - Fully remove the cable from the casing end. Try turning the actuator arm anticlockwise to disconnect as you pull the case off Hard to tell from your picture but not sure the crashbar will let you do that
Thanks @Eldon , it won't...but I fear that that is the action needed! Having a look,.it seems that the crashbar is bolted on via the engine mounting bolts! How the bejesus am I supposed to get that off with out the engine falling out!? Let alone get to the nut on the other side! Some days I like all this fuffling around..others; I just want a port'n lemon.
Ok, thanks @Eldon , this evenings late night task will be removing the crashbar...at least then I can see the wood for the trees etc... So far the other gaskets all look pretty skanky so I'd hazard these cases may never have been off in 12 years...
Just be careful not to lose any shims when you remove engine bolts. They must go back the way they came out.
So, some gentle persuasion with a large screwdriver and yes...the actuator needs to rotate anticlockwise as you kinda pull the cover, it then pops off ok... Any suggestions how to clean up the mating surfaces? There ever so mucky with old gasket... Is scotchbright (green pan scourer) to harsh for the aluminium (?) surfaces?
Ok, so, I'd say that the friction plates look dry; I'd expect them to be wet and oily. They aren't. There are also some with varying degrees of gunk on them, between the actual pads. The drive plates are also 'dry' and there is a degree of debris on some of them too. A few of these plates, while not "stuck" didn't separate unless given a slight encouragement. The inner drum also has a couple of very slight burrs or rough spots. I have never ever seen a clutch before, but I'd say this (the friction pack at least) needs replacing. The little "cork"(?) pads fail a fingernail test. They feel hard and brittle. I also measured the thicknesses of all the discs as they came out... It is certainly true that the first friction pad and last friction pad are slightly thicker than the rest, but I measured each pad (and disc) in 4 different places...and and the measurements are all over the place! There's a bad photo of those measurements if you are interested...(the final few readings on a different page); but you'll get the idea... Anyway...at the very least it needs a good soak, but hey, as I "don't know" if the clutch is in a serviceable condition, I think I'll buy a new friction pack while this far in, and clean up the drove discs... I unable to determine whether the springs are good, bad, or ok...so I may as well replace those too while I'm at it...
So a few points/ tips; The fibre plates should be wet, anything you can do to improve oil flow is good. Clutches work on shear forces as much as spring tension. The fibre plates would benefit from cleaning between the pads to fresh metal using a file. After my day out on the Beta 300 the other day, see what you been doing on your non triumph thread, I was aware of clutch drag when trying to ride backwards like you do ...... what you mean you don't .....but also when trying to find neutral, sound familiar? After a few hours sunday night with the clutch pack out, filed and dressed then thoroughly washed in hot soapy water with a drying cycle of compressed air, then oil wash. Rebuilt and test run in the drive - much better! What are you using to take your measurements? Variable , sorry vernier caliper or micrometer? The majority float around your book spec of 3.30mm so are they lacking thickness or just oil? A quick scan of your numbers suggests to me that thickness isn't your issue Hope some of that makes sense and is of some use, here's my 300 Beta clutch on the way out, sorry didn't take any after preparation pics as was mindful of time/neighbours and my desire to test ride. Your 2nd picture shows very minor marks and doesn't look bad so I wouldn't file or alter the clutch hub. A lot of off road clutches look far worse and work fine.
