Coolant Alternative For Triple 1050 Rs

I have done a coolant change but used the Triumph branded product.

 

Triumph seemed to have stopped doing Hybrid OAT and their new stuff is just OAT (at least at Fowlers the old stuff isn't available and says it's replaced with this new stuff). I used that new Triumph coolant as it wasn't any more expensive than similar from Halfords and the like, and I was getting other service parts delivered from Fowlers anyway.

I flushed the factory HOAT stuff thoroughly with water first as the coolant was different. In fact I actually changed coolant twice as I realised after doing it the first time I needed to run the engine up to fan operating temperature to get the thermostat valve to open and get all the old stuff out. This is on a Bonneville Speedmaster.

 

Ah. I bought mine through eBay. Probably NOS.

 

My 2019 has the original Triumph HOAT coolant and I bought another litre from Triumph for top ups.
When the time comes and I can be bothered, I will drain down, flush with distilled water (from my dehumidifier) and refill with Honda type 2 as I use this in my car and both of my other two bikes and don’t want to be using different coolants in every vehicle.
Frankly, there is nothing to differentiate an aluminium car engine from a bike and so as long as you use a coolant designed for aluminium engines, it doesn’t much matter what you use except be sure not to mix and match - stick to the same stuff for top ups!!!
You have a basic choice of OAT, HOAT or IAT coolants. The IAT (inorganic acid tech) are used for Iron block engines and so you can forget them. Likewise the difference between OAT and “hybrid” OAT is of no concern beyond using a coolant which contains the inhibitors you are comfortable with.
By and large, European manufacturers use coolants with at least some level of silicates. The Far East manufacturers such as Honda/Nissan etc specifically preclude such coolants because silicates can break down and have been associated with water pump damage. You will find all OEM brands from the Jap manufacturers are specifically silicate free.
On the other hand, the Europeans are big on excluding some of the other additives such as phosphates and borates etc which is often in some of the Jap stuff but by and large, it is all smoke and mirrors.
Remember this and you won’t go wrong. . . .
1. Forget the colour of the coolant - it means nothing. Two blue coloured coolants can contain totally different additives etc - colour means nowt.
2. If using coolant containing silicates, change it every 4-5 years as a preventative measure against sludging and pump damage.
3. If using silicate-free and topping up with the same stuff, you can pretty much forget ever carrying out a coolant change in the future unless you change any components in the cooling infrastructure - radiator/pump etc.
The reason for this is silicate-free coolants won’t sludge and protect by coating internal components against corrosion when new. Whilst the coolant will lose its anti-corrosion properties over time, its work is already done and it only needs replacing when a new component is installed and needs protecting against corrosion.
This is why many vehicle manufacturers no longer include coolant changes in their service schedules and even go so far as to say “filled for life” - this is fine unless. . . . the recommended coolant contains silicates.
4. Never use waterless coolants - the engine will run hotter and they are highly flammable.
5. Steer clear of Engine Ice and pure distilled water.
Honda Type 2 is readily available, cheap and silicate free. I put it in my Tiger 1050 12 years ago and it is as clean and clear as the day it went in

 

I've put this in my trip r, putoline ice coolant -
https://www.sportsbikeshop.co.uk/motorcycle_parts/content_prod/238651
Put samco hoses on and they told me not to use oat coolant.
Does maybe run a little cooler, maybe.

 

The only real reason for using Mono propylene Glycol over ethylene glycol is for its lower toxicity. Traditionally Propylene glycol is used in the catering and cosmetics industry and specifically for this reason. Ethylene glycol has superior heat transfer properties and greater freeze protection than propylene glycol.
Of course, the best heat transfer medium is distilled water and so in order to get the same level of cooling, propylene glycol would have to be produced in a reduced concentration and if so, freeze/boiling point delta would be further compromised.
I would be absolutely convinced that the Putoline product will be fine and of course, is silicate-free but on balance and unless you plan on drinking the stuff . . . . . ethylene glycol is the way to go and by and large, will keep your bike running cooler and with greater freeze/boiling point delta.
I wonder why Samco are saying not to use OAT??? . . . . HOAT/OAT has nowt to do with whether or not a coolant is based on propylene or ethylene glycol and so that's a weird one. I would be confident the Putoline stuff is OAT/HOAT