Thruxton R Paddock Stands Uk Dilemma

I'm a BIG fan of 1Jac stands and have posted elsewhere on this forum about them. Nope, I'm NOT a brand ambassador or salesperson; I'm not paid by them and I don't get any freebies of any kind ... I just think - no, I know - their product is a first class, well designed, well made (in England/Britain) piece of kit that will fulfill a number of possible uses in one package that won't cost the earth. The 1Jac will lift the complete bike clear of the ground AND enable full mobility and safety while it's on there.

I don't know whether or not they've yet developed a fitting kit for a Thrucky but they have a 'phone number and they're in this country so you can actually 'phone and speak to someone - heck, you might even end up speaking to the business owner/product designer/maker. And don't worry about the weight - these things will lift bikes like a Hayabusa so, assuming a kit is available, your Thruxton will be a piece of the proverbial.

There's a long and salutary story behind the reason that the 1Jac isn't patented and, hence, why cheap copies are available but stick with the original - they are, in my experience, far better made and finished and fully (lifetime) guaranteed by the maker.

A 1Jac will cost you a bit more than two basic paddock stands but the additional functionality, convenience and quality are more than worth the extra cost.

My 2p.

 

Stronger ones. Surely everyone sits on their bikes on the stands?
And, twist the throttle and operate clutch and brake levers at the same time?
Whilst making vroom noises in their head?

 

Only in a showroom .......

 

Keep in mind that you should about half the weight of the bike. You will only lift the back, so if the bike weighs about 220KG, a 200KG paddock stand should be just fine.

 

Be aware the bobbins are mounted very low on the thruxton. Try to get a shorter stand if you can, taller ones make it a hard and unnerving lift

 

I don't I'm afraid. And I don't think I've ever seen a paddock stand with height being mentioned in the add. I had a cheap one off ebay that luckily enough was pretty short and suited the thruxton. I have another more expensive Harris one, by comparison its a fair bit taller. Lifting the thruxton on that was near impossible because of the initial leverage required. Didn't feel safe at all.

 

If you mean what's stamped on the head of the bolt then that is the tensile strength of the bolt, completely different to torque that you're applying (and different units).
10.9 (not 10.5) is the standard marking for higher strength fasteners.
So you should be fine following the Triumph instructions.

 

You can get torque tables, where you look up the max torque for a size and grade, but these are max and for a nut and bolt. Most bolts that are tightened directly into the frame seem to be around 24nm.

This is an example of a torque table;
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TIGHTENI...349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=706-127636-26712-0

 

No (they are related but never the same).
Completely different units, strength is MPa, torque Nm (like comparing apples and pears)
It only tells an engineer the minimum strength specification of the material that the fastener is manufactured from. Which could be of many materials in each grade (e.g. high carbon steel, stainless steel, titanium alloy etc). Common strength grades (weaker to stronger) are 8.8, 10.9 & 12.9.
Added to this obviously the recommended torque for a given grade will vary depending on its physical size.
Examples for 10.9 grade: M6 bolt - max. torque = 17Nm, M10 bolt - max. torque = 82Nm
8.8 grade M10 bolt - max torque = 57Nm

 

Yes, headstock stand every time. Much more secure and enables any work on front axle, wheel, brakes and can even remove the fork tubes if you need.