T595 Top Yoke Change

Hi all,

I am starting a new Thread after a saga where the moto-cnc top yoke conversion I purchased does not fit my bike. I later found out from them that, despite the website saying it was suitable for a 1998 Daytona, it is for 43mm forks and not 45mm.

Back to the drawing board and I am now waiting for CNC Top Yokes to deliver this and I will update you with my progress all being well!

Let the transformation begin!

 

I’m going to try just lifting the bars first because I am too old for clip-ons

 

Just posting this to hide the driving license Spam that’s all over the forum today

 

I was starting to get worried because CNC Top Yokes happily took my money and automatically confirmed the online order but then it went quiet. After 2 emails and a text message spanning nearly 3 weeks I heard back from them yesterday and I should get the parts next week.

I can’t wait to get her back on the road after 22 years of ownership, 5 years off the road and with a more comfortable riding position.

 

At long last, I have now received my CNC Top Yokes kit exactly 1 month after my order was confirmed and paid for! Communication was pretty bad with them at first but they did keep me informed for the last week, only after lots of chasing.

Anyhoo, here it is and I will post an update once fitted.

 

Wow, that took about an hour to fit and will now take several hours to re-route cables, fit new brake lines and mount the reservoir.

The only unexpected snag so far is that the wiring for the left hand switch gear is about 4” short and their is no flexibility to extend. Is this a cut and graft job or is there another version for say a Street Triple that fits and is longer?

I would appreciate any guidance you have.

 

I overcame most of the obstacles today and am pretty pleased with the results of my new CNC Top Yoke conversion.

For anyone doing the same job and looking for tips, here are some of the idiosyncrasies I found with fitting a new top yoke for a higher handlebar position. It may seem obvious to some but don’t forget to protect your tank, clocks and fairing before starting (I use old towels).

1. Removing the old T595 top yoke is straight forward but removing the 2 headless bolts for the ignition is tricky. I used a small drill and was then able to undo the bolts with some needle nose pliers. Keep the 2 offset washers for reassembly.
2. Extended front brake lines are needed
   
3. The Clutch and Throttle cables should reach with a bit of re-routing
4. There is 2-3 inches more length available on each of the left and right switch gear harness. You just need to cut the small cable ties under the fairing behind the headlights (very fiddly!)
5. I used Renthal 758 22mm bars and they just slightly nudge the fairing in left and right hand lock positions (this is a UK MOT failure by the way)
6. The left and right switch gear will need the small lugs cut or filed smooth if you are using generic bars (such as Renthal) and not standard Triumph bars
7. I made a small aluminium L shaped bracket for the brake reservoir because the old one no longer fits

Thanks for looking.

 

By way of an update.

I have since fitted Renthal 754 Road Low bars that sweep back a bit more and miss the fairing, so no more steering lock limitations or MOT failure.