Baffle removal

Steve that's great thank you! I will absolutely give this a go... I'll order a couple of packs of cutting discs for my Dremel from Amazon right away!!

I appreciate you taking the time to send the reply! Great help!!

 

Any time sir. Good luck. If you have any questions along the way, just ask. Cheers.

 

just been reading through this thread and have removed the disks no issues ( great thread and advice BTW ) - whats people general thoughts on performance with baffles removed ? I see there is a couple of mixed opinions but not too much feedback ? looking to remove mine this weekend just to be able to compare the 2 sounds ( baffle in and out ) as you tube sound doesn't reflect true likeness IMO.

 

Hi John, I have posted dyno runs from another forum on here to show there is no loss of power or torque when removing the discs and baffles. Personally I feel it performs better with both removed. It sure sounds better that’s for sure. Stock sounds very restricted IMO.

 

Yeah I agree to the sound, gonna try remove them using the Dremel type tool - can’t be bothered trying to mess about with the end caps . I think I should be able to fix a small screw back in place if it’s too loud anyway .

 

Not that you’ll ever want them back in, but yes the screw should work well for reinstalling.

 

All done using the Dremel method thanks for advice all ,
My cuts are no where as near as neat as @SteveRS ,I’m bit too heavy handed! however it’s out which is the main thing , I’ll give it a tidy up after I’ve been on a few runs ,

 

I just removed the baffles and restrictor plate on my 19 RS. Some tips for others after doing it .
- simply cut 3mm off the end with a cutting wheel. Don't grind it. Then pound the baffle out from the backside. My first can, I tried grinding and it makes it real hard to see when you've gone far enough.
- 41mm hole saw with extension will take the plate out in less than a minute.
- be prepared for how loud it is going to be. It sounds awesome, but it's really loud.
- dont be worried about the rivets. $15 for a riveter and a couple bucks for some black aluminum rivets fixes it.
- to get the carbon fiber cap off... Use a heat gun to warm it up. I used a mini prying screwdriver wrapped with a cloth to pry on the inside lip of the cap at the end of the can. Just work it slow and steady... It will come off.

I leave for work early in the morning and the exhaust was way too loud at low rpms. I ended up cutting 2.5" off each baffle and putting them back in. I just tapped them in to seal them better and put a screw in behind them to hold them in position. It now sounds much better at idle/low rpm, but screams when you open it up.

The first can I did isn't the cleanest job, but the second looks fine. You have to really look to notice it though.

 

Not sure I’m following exactly your process there. Sounds like you removed the baffles then put them back in after cutting of 2.5 inches of the pipe. What was the reason for removing the carbon fibre end cap?

 

Sorry, I cut 2.5 inches off of the baffles. I shortened them, and then put them back in. I did this on my old bike with a yoshi pipe, it gives you a nice middle ground in sound volume.

 

But why the endcap removal?

 

Sorry, I cut 2.5 inches off of the baffles. I shortened them.

I took the end cap off to cut the weld holding the baffles. I used an angle grinder with a cutting wheel. I didn't have cutting disks for my dremel.

I used an angle grinder with a cut off wheel to cut the weld holding the baffles in. I didn't have cutting blades for my dremel, so end caps had to come off. My baffles are now shorter, but removable if I so choose.

 

Ok, I understand now. Personally I think it would’ve been easier to go buy some little disks for your Dremel then to remove the end cap, but hey you got it done. Great job.

 

Yeah, I get that. I really didn't want to nick the carbon fiber. On the second can, I had the cap off in 5 minutes and the angle grinder cut the weld off in less than a minute. Gave the baffle a few good whacks from inside the can with a large socket on an extension and it popped right out. Then clean up your cut and your good to go. I'm just sharing my experience to maybe save others some trouble. There is more than one way to skin a cat.

 

I done pretty much the same process on a superduke. Very easy to remove the end cap and replace the rivets.

 

I only had a Liw Boy can to do and got 10 rivets for about £2, good thing is you can drill/tap a hole for bolt, or liquid metal a nut on b4 refitting the Carbon end.
I ended up having to remove and end again as a single Arrow can was too loud, so baffle had to go back in.

 

Another thank you from Sweden for excellent instructions

 

Just got back from my first ride post baffle removal. Not sure if I think its loud, or if Im just used to it being too quiet. Either way, it sounds incredible. I removed the little washer things a week or so ago, but found myself wanting more, so out came the baffles. Not sure if I will try shortening them, and reinstalling as another person here mentioned, but I did clean up all the edges so that they can be easily reinstalled if desired.

As for process, I followed much of what was laid out here. Dremel cutting wheels, etc. I will however recommend pulling off the carbon end caps off though. Its not difficult at all, and a rivet gun is cheap. I wasnt super concerned in terms of scratches etc, it just makes everything a whole lot easier, and at least for me, cleaner imo.

Anyway, thanks to everyone here for documenting how they went about it, it was a tremendous help.

 

Hi everyone!
I have a Canadian Speedy RS 2019. Bought new, so no mods by a previous owner. Have been researching baffle removal since April 2020. Read all the forums, watched all the videos and contacted, both Triumph America and Triumph UK to ENSURE that this would not harm the bike. Was assured by both that it was fine.

Finally decided to remove the baffles yesterday. Two "problems";

First, the carbon end caps would not come off. Drilled the copper rivets out and heated the end caps. Twisted, pulled, "pried" and had two of us try to maniplute the caps off... no go.

So, decided to do the "dremel removal" process. I've read that owners have had to grind, anywhere from 1 to 5 millimeters before the end weld "split".

I started grinding, evenly, around the weld... one, two, three millimeters...

Eventually, (and unfortunately) I decided to grind one section down, until I found the split and then would know how far I needed to go and even the rest of the end out. The split never happened.

I called the dealer and asked for help with information as to why this was happening and he informed me that my db killers were NOT removable.

"How can this be??!!" I've SEEN it done on youtube, on my year, my model, my exhaust. I've seen pictures on forums and read detailed descriptions. I've had confirmation from, both, Triumph America and Triumph UK, so European vs North American shouldn't matter. Besides, I've seen it done on Canadian bikes on THIS forum.

So, I have one untouched can and one "mangled" can.

I can't remove the end cap to use a bench grinder to evenly flatten out the uneven surfaces and I don't want to go any further with the dremel on this can and then attempt to cut the other can to match.

I've contacted the dealer and talked to the foreman and he said that the db killers are not removable, so this would not be warrantied as I attempted modification without Triumph instruction. BUT, I kinda feel like I WAS instructed by Triumph themselves, as an engineering specialist responded to my e-mails about the removal of the db killers.

Long story, longer... I have all the e-mails from Triumph UK and America and have send them, along with detailed infromation and several videos, showing the baffles successfully being removed on the same bike and he is going to see if Triumph will replace the left side as a "good will" gesture. I have a Daytona and Street Triple too, so I have contributed to the cause

If I can remove the carbon caps, I can at least grind down both sides evenly, with a bench or angle grinder, if Triumph does not want to "help me out". I can understand their position. I'm going to look into whether the end caps are available, seperately, and if removing the carbon ends up destroying them, I can replace them. The ONE left side replacement is $800.

ANY help with suggestions to remove the caps would be greatly appreciated. Just know that I've read all the posts and tried everything, so I'm not that optimistic.

Anyone else had a 2019 with that the end weld DID NOT separate, no matter how far it was ground??

All the best,

Barrett

 

Sorry to hear about your troubles. I hope you can find a solution