Diy Aluminium Head Clean

Thanks, Capt, looks like I got away with it then...even the valve stem seals had been consigned to scrap at this point.

 

I should just add, for anyone reading this thread in the future, that the valve guides will rust if you give the head a good wash/rinse without making haste of the drying process!
I fortunately noticed this within hours of rinsing it off and got to it quickly with the hairdryer and a wipe of oil.

 

As you say, all outdoors, so dodging the weather is the greatest issue...even the wind is a pain with everything opened up.
I’ve managed to switch out the double-spring clutch with a later single-spring issue, though I can confirm that after 29k none of the inner springs were broken.
I’ve got a week off from tomorrow morning, so plan to get the valves lapped in and back together for shim adjustment within the next day or so. I’m not quite sure about the most efficient way of replacing the shims, because a number of them were not measurable, making it a case of (I’m guessing) putting an undersized shim in until there is a gap to measure and calculate from? I’m thinking there must be a simpler solution...I’d really like to avoid the number of times I’ll have to remove the cams with that ‘solution!’ I might put it to the group later?
Take it easy out there,
Stuart

 

Yes, nearly all the inlets were tight, and I definitely plan to finish the head indoors.
Fortunately there’s a purpose-built lug on the cams so they can be turned insitu with a spanner

 

I know it won’t please a lot of you to still see carbon on a rebuilt head project, but it’s the best I can do without using a whole load of chemicals and rinse aids.
The first four valves are ground in with a 1-1.5mm seal (hope that’s enough, I was afraid to go further)...it’s feeling good to be constructing rather than destructing
The inlet valves have nipped in really tidily. However the exhaust valves are leaving an imperceptible peck or two until magnified by phone, when they seem massive...do you reckon I should try and grind them out (marked in red circles)? They are literally 10th of a mm wide and deep - I fear it could make a really wide ‘band’ to cut them completely out...there must be total 1mm of material sealing in and around the ‘pecks,’ what’s your thoughts?

 

Interestingly when trying to find your Google info. I came across the info (which I failed to spot before) from the Triumph T595 workshop manual, which gives the below details, and stating these figures for both exhaust AND inlet valves??
I also found lots of information in keeping with your post too...all very complicated this overhaul stuff