Featured Street Twin Bullet Drl Indicators And De-grey Winter Project

Here are the pics of my Street Twin after some winter project work to get rid of some grey and fit bullet combined DRL/indicator;




The speedo bezel and mirror backs were done as demonstrated in the View from the Man Cave videos, using spray can primer and satin black paint.

I removed the headlight holders, handle bar clamp and air intake cover and got them powder coated. I was going to do them all satin black, but a conversation with an arty mate brought my attention to the burgundy stripe in the Triumph logo, I decided to try making the intake covers burgundy.

Whilst I had everything appart I decided to fit bullet indicators that incorporate DRL to improve my visibility, the DRL are turned on via a switch I mounted on the handle bars and they automatically flash amber if on when the indicator is used.

Without changing the settings the LED indicators flash too fast. This Triumph PDF of the Triumph LED indicator fitting instructions shows you how to change the settings and in my case type 2 worked;
http://www.triumphinstructions.com/P...9838039-EN.pdf

I bought Alchemy indicators/DRL and some 43mm mounts. I realised that the wire connectors that came with the lights were different. Triumph use 'Molex' style connectors. I ordered ordered some of these molex style connectors from Mouser, reasonable price but eye watering delivery, there must be a better way to buy these;
538-02-09-2118
02-09-2118
CRIMP PIN BULK 18-22
NOV 24, 2019
20
0.137 2.74

538-02-09-1119
02-09-1119
CRIMP SKT BULK 18-22
NOV 24, 2019
20
0.127 2.54

538-03-09-2011
03-09-2011
1 CIRCUIT PLUG
NOV 24, 2019
20
0.173 3.46

538-03-09-1011
03-09-1011
1 CIRCUIT RECEPTACLE

The indicators come with a flanged nut that didn't fit inside the bracket, so I had to cut two opposite sides off of the flange with a hack saw, easy enough. I decided to use loctite on the threads and then greased the outside to protect from corrosion. The wires come out of the middle of the bolt.


I had thought I would need to drill a hole for the cable and even bought some little grommets but when fitted the clamp leaves a space for the wires to pass through. Here is one of the indicators and brackets on the bike hiding above the original one.


It was in researching how to fit these I discovered that DRL's must not be used at night and must be automatic or switched... Well, since I had got this far I figure at least I will have better daytime visability. So I bought one of these handlebar mounted, halo LED latching switch;


This came without explanation of the colour coding. After some research and playing with a 12v supply and multimeter I worked out the following;
Black - Switch LED negative
Red - Switch LED positive
Green - Switch common
White - Normally open NO switched
Blue - Normally closed NC switched

I want to switch a live for the DLR so attached a live to the green switch wire and will attach the white normally open switched wire to the DLR wire in the indicators. I decided not to use the halo LED. In order to make the switch halo light come on when the DRL is switched on I would have attached a neutral to the black switch LED wire and the red switch LED wire to the white normally open switched wire.

I also came across a crafty way to get an ignition switched live from the horn. Just needed a piggy back spade connector. This was the last piece of the jigsaw that means the new indicators are fitted in a totally reversible way. I did consider a relay, but LED are very low wattage and current.

Possible next projects;
De-grey bar ends possible bar end mirrors
Rear bullet indicators and rear light
LED headlight bulb
Ride the blimmin thing!

 

Couldn't wait to do the bar end mirrors and rear LED. Ordered the TEC bar ends and Triumph rear LED indicators.

 

Just looked at the views from the Man Cave video solution, it looks great! As good as or better than lots of off the shelf options. At only £16 for the mount, I decided to have a go and ordered one to modify. Everything I have done appart from powder coating is reversible. Did you keep a number plate light and reflector? Seen a few options for them but not sure what solution I prefer. Apparently the only legal requirement is the reflector.

Here is the link to the video;


And this is a shot from the video of how it looks;

 

Yes, as Repooh says the bench seat is a bit higher. I am 6'1 and find the bench seat means my legs fit better, especially with stiff boots on. The bench seat is a bit harder though and my backside gets a bit numb sometimes!

 

Just realised the plate on my bike is a bit too wide to fit between the rear indicators, it also has an extra black stip at the bottom for the dealer advert. Got a feeling my indicators may be shorter than normal. Worst case is it will sit as high as possible or I make some sort of spacers.

 

You lot are costing me a fortune! Just ordered a Motone Billet fuel filler cap. I also found that TEC sell a little mount for the rear indicators, which is meant for mounting Triumph indicators to the TEC tail tidy, but I reckon it could give me the extra room I need for a legal reg plate on the home made tail tidy. I ordered a 228mm wide plate from JDM which is as small as my reg can go.

 

Just for beerkat;


Really pleased with the filler cap and removed reflectors. Took the reflectors off using the dental floss trick, then elbow grease and WD40.

Picked up the new licence plate holder today so will start playing with that later. Apparently part number T2702016 referenced in video comments has been superseded by T2702034, hope it fits!

Problem is I now think a steel and black leather tank strap would look good, but cannot afford the Omega one!

 

Thanks, food for thought, I have not really done any performance upgrades yet. I did my semi tail tidy based on the Views from the Man Cave idea today and pleased with the result;


The project cost me £16 for the Triumph spare part, about £15 for the TEC indicator mounts (had to cut and file a ridge off it) and about £30 for the JDM smallest legal number plate. Just waiting on an E9 reflector I will bolt under the plate on the bit of plastic poking out below the plate. I was going to make it fold out or retract, but I don't think it needs to really.