Gear Shifter Adjustment

That needs to be left in place. To adjust the length, you need to remove the rod from the output shaft lever and use the nuts on the shaft to adjust the length. I just reread that . Anyway, I was under the impression from several sources that the length of the rod had to be a specific length in order for the quickshifter to work, but that’s actually not true. I found it easier to adjust it when the rearset was removed, which is just two bolts by the way. Once the rearset is removed pop the rod off the output shaft lever and pull it through the hole from right to left. Make the adjustment then reinstall. Keep in mind that I don’t use the quickshifter, so I can’t comment on it’s performance when adjusted, but others have and they say it works fine. Holy, that was longer than I expected.

 

I wouldnt touch it, it's the original shift arm not the machined/altered one.
If you move it and it starts touching the qs your problems will be endless, trust me!
I suggest you read through "speed triple rs 4th gear problem"

 

The reason the arm and shaft are marked is because the gear position sensor (on the other end of the shaft usually) and the quickshifter need to work in harmony and just one spline out will upset it all and the left hand won't know what the right hand is doing.

 

Rubbish. There is no relation.

The reason it's not a good idea is due to the moment of torque applied during a shift.

If you need to lift your foot rod up, FIRST, go to your dealer, and get the updated shit arm fitted.

Then, Undo the two lock nuts (with everything still in place) at either end of the shift rod (one just behind the QS and on just in front of the rear ball joint.
Then rotate the shift rod until the desired height it reached and tighten the two lock nuts again.

You will require nothing more than one 10mm and one 8mm spanner for this job.

 

⬆️ Correct

 

Don't just say "Rubbish" Burny. You have described how to adjust the position of the gear lever relative to the footpeg with the proviso that you go to the dealer first. Nothing wrong with that. It has already been described by SteveRS. Not sure why you think the dealer would fit an updated shift arm though as Mike already has a Q/S?

Mike Wilkinson asked two questions;

"is (it) fairly easy to adjust the gear shifter?"
and
"there is a mark on the bolt and the arm which are currently aligned so I wonder if that’s just the default setting or if it must be left there??

You answered the first question. SteveRS answered both. He said that the Linkage Clamp needs to be left in place.

I just tried to provide a reason that the position of the linkage clamp on the gear change shaft is permanently marked with a punch.

Now I might be wrong and I'm sure everyone here wants correct information. You said there is no relationship between the gear position sensor and the quickshifter if I understood you correctly. The reason you say I'm talking rubbish is that the moment of torque will change. That would only be the case if you changed the dimensions of the linkage clamp arm and gave it more leverage. Changing it's positions on the splines of the shaft would not change the moment of torque, but it would change the amount of movement that the Q/S sensor could detect.

So Burny, if I'm wrong, I have four questions for you;
-why is the shaft marked?
-why should you ensure that you align the marks when you put the linkage clamp back on?
-why is there no relationship between the two sensors?
-why does Mike need an upgraded shift arm?

This might be of interest to Mike...

 

The reason that the arm and shaft are marked is that there is a cut out (notch) on the shaft.

There is a hex screw that holds the arm on the shaft (which you can see in the photo). In order to ensure that the arm is in the correct place (not too close to the gearbox, and not too close to the end of the shaft) there is a cutout on the shaft into which a portion of the hex screw locates.

Basically, if you don't line up the marks the hex screw won't go it, but visually you won't see why - hence the marks. This is why you cannot (at least on my RS) move one tooth either way to adjust the gear shifter.

You can - QS or not - change the length of the rod to make the same adjustment. Hope that makes sense!!

[Edited for ambiguity / poor wording]

 

If it was me, and I was adjusting the gear linkage for comfort, I would fit the new arm with the cutout (Part T2085100, pic below from another thread) while I was doing it.

The issue is that with the original arm, on most bikes, the quick shifter barrel only just clears the arm. And on many, the barrel of the QS just catches on the arm, sending false signals and generally messing things up - hence why Triumph gave us a new part **.

If it was me, I would be concerned about adjusting the gear linkage and then inadvertently ending up with a QS that catches on the arm.

I would hope you could request the part free of charge via warranty, but then they may want you to be experiencing issues first - for which you can always fib a little to get what you want.

Changing the shift arm is actually even less work than adjusting the linkage, so I'd go for it



** I am aware that there are other issues with the QS, gearbox (especially 4th) etc etc. I just concentrated on why you would (or wouldn't) change the shift arm, as that was the question posed.

 

Don't you just love a good argument!

Post #7
" That would only be the case if you changed the dimensions of the linkage clamp arm and gave it more leverage. Changing it's positions on the splines of the shaft would not change the moment of torque"

IMHO - NOT true - the torque (or moment) is a function of distance X force acting NORMAL to the link. If you moved the link on the splines (not that you should/could for other reasons) then the torque changes. (e.g. if you could relocate the link 90° then infinite force would give 0 torque - and gear change link is going nowhere)

Everyone loves a smartarse too.

 

Col_C, I beg your pardon, you're absolutely right. If you move the gear shift arm around the splines so that it is not at 90deg to the rod, the torque will change a bit as it will a lot more if you fitted a longer shift arm, which was what I was thinking about (and done before on something else).
So I've learnt something today. I'm really not trying to be a smartarse, I just want to understand and learn something. So when someone says I'm talking rubbish, I tend to believe them but want to know why.

So what are the other reasons you shouldn't/couldn't move the arm on the splines?

 

I was referring to myself as being the (self derogatory) smartarse.
Post #8 describes the reasons for its fixed position very well.
(and I don't even have a q/s - nor would I want one)

 

Okay, thanks!

 

I think most of this has been answered already really, but the amount of incorrect information about the transmission system on this forum is worrying.
I am not sure if our paths have crossed before SpeedTwin1200, but I feel I should start by siting my experience, I am a Transmissions Research and Development Engineer.

I do sincerely apologise if I offended you, it's all too easy for me to get wound up by incorrect information and make a short and to the point replies. I really do need to get into the habit of better explaining myself.

So, answers below in bold, I am more than happy to elaborate on anything if anyone does have any questions.

 

Oh, and someone mentioned that you must to 'full turns' with the QS installed to adjust the length, this isnt the case as the rod adjustment is all made AFTER the sensor and cable assembly, so you can infinitely and finitely adjust the settings (until you run out for thread) For those concerned about this, general practice for minimum thread engagement is 1xDiameter, in this case, 6 turns in (M6x1 thread).

 

Thanks for your answers to my questions Burny. And thanks for qualifying your expertise, I can't argue with that! Like you I am wary of Forum information and want to get things right so I'm more than happy to be corrected!

"-why is there no relationship between the two sensors? Because there is no need for there to be. The only information the QS requires is which gear is it in so as to NOT give a cut/ blip if you're in 1st or 6th. The only way to affect this is to move the gear position sensor."

My choice of words was obviously not right but my understanding was that both the gear position sensor and the QS switch provide information that the ECU needs to perform the cut or blip at the right time and as you say it wouldn't be ideal if you got an ignition cut every time you try to find 7th! So I meant the two components are related in order to have a successful quick-shift.

Apart from all the reasons you list, I just thought it would be possible for the timing of the cut to potentialy be altered by a fraction if you moved the shift arm around on the splines because the QS signal timing would be altered by the different torque applied through the arm. Perhaps that's bollocks too?


My limited experience has been with a Geartronics pneumatic paddle shift system on a Hayabusa engined single seater hillclimb car. As you said, if the gear position sensor is moved or gets a knock, as mine can because its external, it is a pain to plug in the laptop to re-configure the gear positions in the ecu. I've also had to troubleshoot a fault in the system and had to check everything, including the position of the shift arm on the shaft was actually correct relative to the movement available in the shift mechanism (the normal moment of torque bit). So my advice above was to leave the shift arm on the mark, because if you start messing with the timing of a gear shift that is set up in the ecu, you risk damage to the gears, finding false neutrals etc, etc.

I wasn't offended, I just really want to know how things work.

 

Sounds as though you have a great grasp of it than most, thankfully also airing on your cautionary side of things which is great.

If you take a look back, 5? years, youll find quick shifters on bikes that WOULD try to find 7th. But they were never 'bad' from 1st-6th. Effectively allll it is doing, is the manual throttle roll off that you would get 10 years ago with your right hand. There was 'much' science behind it.
Today, yes, you can adjust the engine cut for each shift, so knowing which gear its in, does help, but I dont think triumph ARE doing this, because if they were or had the option to, they would have solved the 4th gear shifting issue (Which I have, by fitting a HM SABS unit, and programming this myself - side note, which is relevent, the HM unit is a load cell type, the Triumph (translogic) unit is a two way micro switch. This is important! because... a load cell is sensitive to... load (or the torque) applied to the shift rod, a micro switch is not.
This leading onto your theory behind changing the moment about the selector rod, would effectively work as you have suggested in this post by increasing the force required to complete an upshift, however, it would have a negative effect in other areas, such as increasing the distance your foot needs to move in order to manage a full and complete shift, which then becomes a negative and you end up back where you started. It also means that the torque seen through the range would be ever increasing on the upshift, but on the down shift, it would decrease as you go through the 'normal' zone. This actually runs the risk of a non adjustable sensor generating a double signal event as the load decreases and increases again passing through 'normal'

It's all swings and roundabouts here you see?
There is also a whole lot more going on inside the selector mechanism which I definitely can't explain beyond midnight.
I see you're based in hampshire, id be more than happy to meet up for a chat any excuse to ride the bike, i'm only in reading.

 

Sorry for bringing back such an old thread, but after reading this I am still not fully sure if it's ok to adjust the gear shifter height for foot comfort. Maybe after a year and a half someone will have some more concrete info...

My pedal was sitting too high for my foot, so I adjusted the linkage to lower it a bit. I want to be sure I'm not going to mess anything up with the quickshifter in doing so. It was pouring rain so I couldn't try it, but reading all the stuff on this forum about guy wrecking their gearboxes makes me nervous.

 

Hi there,
I think that if you adjust the rod length (and not the shift actuator arm) then you'd be fine. I'd run up and down the box from 1-6th to make sure that it doesn't rub on the frame but the actuator should have been the updated one (with the cut out on it)

 

So I found this in the service manual.I will take mine back apart and set it to the 146.7mm as in the photo below. Hope this helps.