Givi Engine Bar Installation Chronicle

Right, so I successfully installed my engine bars today. I ordered GIVI TN6410 engine bars for t100 and t120 2016-2019 from Revzilla for about 100 bucks. They arrived and i thought cool, four bolts in and out Bob's your fkn uncle. Wrong, but i took some pictures along the journey in case anyone else decides to undertake this without paying somebody else to do it. So first of all these are fixed to the frame via the engine mounting bolts which have a 17 mm lock nut on the back side. They are designed to re use the same bolts although they send replacement washers. These lock nuts are in a difficult position to reach as you will see particularly the top ones.

 

Now necessary or not i decided in the interest of safety to never have more than one of these bolts removed at a time. The best way to accomplish this was to remove the lower bolt from the left side first. There are a few ways to get ahold of the nut on the back, but i ultimately chose a friend and some socket extensions when possible although the right wrenches could certainly get the job done.

 

Once i had loosened the bottom i left it in place and proceeded to loosen the top bolt both on the same side leaving myself at least 6 other engine mounts firmly in place. To reach the top one seemed impossible initially and i ended up using a wrench which I padded with a rag and let brace against the frame work. Rag not pictured to maintain what im attempting to show. Note that this wrench is not fully seated on the nut due to the angle and later when it came time to torque these back in place i switched to a flex end wrench which only just fit in and needed to be stabilized from the other side

 

Once these bolts were loosened the next step was to first remove the bottom bolt and not and discard the stock washer. Then mount the bar with the bolt pushing through in this order the bar mount, washer, frame, engine mount and finally back to lock nut. I then did the sane for the top mount with the exception that the top mount on the left side was assembled different and appeared greased and maybe somebody can shed light on what or why this is the way it is, but for my purposes long story short i kept the oem washer here, but otherwise assembled the same. Once both snugged into place a proceeded to torque both bolts to 78 pound foot (105nm). This was easier written than accomplished and likely would be easiest with the help of a friend and a high quality long handle torque wrench. It is very important to use a torque wrench and i found out exactly why.

 

So all that rinse and repeat on the right side. To torque bolts i used a wrench on the lock nut braced against a breaker bar which i placed against the frame with padded tags between the metal. However upon torquing the fourth and final bolt on the lower right side despite using the torque wrench and all the care in the world the oem lock nut stripped in fantastic fashion. I felt from the experience of the first three that it was just about at tightness and it gave way. I knew immediately it was stripped, but was amazed at how the threads came out in one piece like a spring. Not sure if this was a poorly machined nut or if the triumph dealer over torqued when assembling, but either way i had to get a replacement nut ands somehow the bolt remained undamaged.

 

I did see that, but that bit is beyond the lock nut and didn't affect initial threading. It torqued to spec ‍♂️

 

Have you ever seen the threads come out of a nut like that tho? My mind was blown when that perfect little spring came out of there

 

Wish i could say those were my tools lol. Most belong to my friend. He has everything we needed not surprisingly since he's rebuilding a supra.8)

 

Probably should have added this sooner. Shots of the finished product. Pretty tickled about it ands excited for tec bone parts to get back from vaca and send me new levers