Thruxton Post your Thruxton pics here

The great thing about changing your own bike for yourself, you don’t have the same as Bob or John,everyone sees your bike, but not what you’ve done, because it’s the small things that never get noticed.That makes such a huge difference

 

I just see that TFC the same as a CVO Harley Davidson, off the shelf rich kids toy which lacks imagination (apologies to anyone who’s ordered), customising is individual and this is just a expensive stock option. They cant be that hot as Ive had 3 dealers offer me one this week so when they are coming to you then that tells you something

 

Only time will tell, but like you I can’t see the value.
Some will, and it could become a future must have, I’ve been really wrong before.
I could never see what was special about a mk1 Escort Mexico it was a crossflow with bigger arches on the front.
But F#*k me they’re 30k now for a good one

 

My bet is that they will still have them in stock in October, and that will be the time to buy a pre reg one at a reduced price.

 

So Glyn, if we were both riding down the road, assuming we are the same weight, who would get away and in front, i have sport mode but both our bike have the same power output… i suppose i might be able to change gear a split second quicker so might give the advantage, otherwise if thats not the case, sport mode would be a waste of time.

 

I don’t understand the question ( in relation to what)?

 

Oh right…. so you do have sport mode, i didnt realise…...

 

As far as I’m aware the power and modes are exactly the same, the R has the suspension and brake goodies but everything else is the same.
My bike has rain, road and sport modes.they may have differences but I don’t know.!

 

This is the mode button on the Standard, as I said I don’t know if they’re different but they are available.ive only used road though

 

The mode button is on the left on the R. but lets face it Glyn, between the two of us we got enough power to run another bike…..

 

Power output and modes are exactly the same on the S and the R apart from the switch on the handlebar. Once mine is run in I'll probably only use Sport, output is the same just more sensitive, or less, depending how you look at it.

 

I’ve found normal low speed riding, sport becomes a little annoying you hit a bump bike takes off .
The slightest movement of your hand gives a large shove from the rear wheel

 

ive found it alot better to get your weight back further over the rear shocks and its quite a lot better as regards bumpiness. i have moved my rear shock spring adjuster down one position(,theres a gap betwwen the two adjusters now) although you might think that with make the ride harder its actually alot better, ive had it like that for the last 1k miles and dont intend moving it back.

 

I have a vision, a vision of 100 thruxtons/triumphs all riding together, racing numbers and all……. through the villages and towns in one big swarm of sheer nostalgic fantasticalness with a pure "music to the ears" noise , all ending up at the thruxton race circuit for one big bike meet up and a few laps around the track, and maybe somelight hearted drag racing…….now wouldn't that be a day….. anyone up for help organising this, or any ideas..? wouldnt it be a pure joy….. Anyone think this could even be organised……?

 

Well, I'd definitely turn up.

 

I’d be there if it’s warm and dry

 

So firstly the idea behind this was to save money. The idea being that if I didn’t like the result or even f****** it up, second hand standard cans are readily available at sensible money.
I cut a piece from some soft wood, slightly larger than internal diameter of existing baffle. Rubbed it down using sandpaper to a cone, enabling at least 25% to fit inside said baffle. Bought a 45mm stainless steel metal cutter (Bosch). Drilled hole into centre of wood cone the same size as the Bosch hole cutter arbor (drill bit). Tapped cone into baffle, placed arbor into wood acting as a centralising boss to prevent the cutter slipping. Used electric drill on low variable speed using loads of maintenance spray to lubricate being careful not to put to much pressure onto the cutter. Whole process takes about ten minutes per side. Each side is a two stage process ( there are two stainless steel sections to cut through), once through the first plate keep going. Once through both sections, the baffle is ready to be removed using mole grips/ pliers.
Whole job from start to finish, no more than £25. Happy Days Hope this helps Spacefrog

 

Thank you for that ken, i like the idea of the wood in the end of the baffle to centralise it, and i think a good quality hole cutter like the Bosch one you bought is essential, i do have my eye on some cheap pipes i may get, and if i am successful i can drill out the others for someone else to enjoy…. as i dont think i will have much trouble getting rid of them….. i suppose it a bit of stressful job to be drilling out parts of your pride and joy but you probably researched it before you did it….. you made a nice job of it.
And i cant remember if you said as ive read so many articles, but did you have to have to do any ecu changes….

 

Had the ECU remapped using Adaptable piggy back software by Hilltop prior to exhaust work anyway. Would recommend it as it will adapt to any other changes you wish to make