Can't Start 2017 Bonneville T100

Battery, if your battery doeas not have enough charge/ voltage ( exact figure eludes me) to turn over the engine the ECU will cut out ,so as not to damage the sprag clutch.

https://www.thetriumphforum.com/thr...art-try-running-through-this-checklist.12935/

 

If you have damaged cells then you may have enough charge to start once.
The battery is always your start point.
If you have a car try using your battery to start the bike, dont have the car running. or swap out the battery with an other bike.

 

Battery.
Had a Yamaha 600 thundercat and one morning fired it up for work, no issue.
Locked the door and stalled it setting off. Re-start, not a chance.

If a cell goes then it's an instant no go.
Your video shows a very short cranking, will it crank longer?
If not a simple volt check across the battery with a multimeter will confirm the above. Anything under 11 volts hasn't a chance.

Another worthwhile check is the earth loop. Quickest way to eliminate; Place a jump lead direct from battery negative to the starter motor body/mounting bolt/engine and press starter.

 

Battery won't charge at idle ! Unless the idle speed has been raised/adjusted with a multi meter attached to the battery when the alternator/regulator kicks in ! So idling for prolonged warmup time isn't recommended and it's not good for the battery ! It's just gone through it's heaviest duty and not getting recharge !
Adjust idle up a bit in cold weather to boost charging , so bike cannot discharge battery with closed throttle , this is idling position .

 

Capt I don't know how old you are but are you talking DYNAMO or Alternator ?

 

I'm 57 in 23 days , on the 21, I'm talking alternator, the regulator/rectifier doesn't kick in and start to charge until there are enough engine revolutions. A generator on the other hand starts to produce electrickery as soon as it begins to turn ! And dynamos only produce a single pulse of high voltage (spark) once the generator side of it has produced enough electrickery to provide the start-up of the dynamic side , high amps triggering hi voltage via a simple induction transformer !

Enough said or do you want the math ??

 

Just to clear up the misinformation above.
The reason for the non start despite running is down to the freezing weather, its often a cause of the battery's demise if its on the weak side,
Once the engine is started and even on idle the battery will be charging...depending on its state of charge, the regulator/rectifier unit senses the charge state of the battery and the on going electrical load IE ignition lights etc and will adjust the charging rate accordingly...so if the battery is low it will be being charged.
An alternator produces alternating current AC just like the mains so has to be converted to direct current DC hence the regulator/rectifier unit, with the old dynamo system it produced DC to start so only needed a regulator unit to adjust the current flow to the battery.

 

You got most of that right ! But the alternator won't charge the battery at IDLE ! Especially if the rpms are low , alternators need to spin at much higher rpms than generators to produce "charging" current and volts, the problem is exacerbated by the much heavier loads put on charging systems by modern electronic ECU controlled motors ! My 09 America would only start three or four times on a fully charged battery if I did short trips between start ups, I live in a small town, its 1•4 klms from my house to the Shell Garage ! I know this because I've almost had to push my bike home when it wouldn't start after refuelling ! This was when bike was new and battery was good ! Didn't make any difference if I warmed bike up @ idle for 2 or 3 minutes ! Cure was to route regulator/rectifier direct to the battery via heavier cable's. When regulator goes through the normal wiring/cables there is Too much resistance as wire's are Too thin to carry the required amp's to achieve charging !! I now have gone several steps up the Cure ladder ! Lithium battery and much higher cold cranking amps !
The cold will definitely exacerbate the problem by making the battery both harder to charge and give out the required charge to drive the starer motor and ancillary equipment when required ! As the cold will slow down the lead acid batteries chemistry !!!

My bike has never been operated/started in 0°c or below, lowest I think I've ridden it would be about 6/8°c and I have had the above mentioned issues with charging and starting ! Alternators are good but not that good, the thing they are best at - they will spin at much much higher speeds than generators before they will sustain damage, generators generally like to spin at 1/3 to 1/2 the speeds that alternators handle with ease.

 

We will just have to agree to disagree, as all modern alternators and associated charging systems will supply a charge to the battery at idle regardless of RPM, try using a meter and check..if they didn't the current draw from
the ignition, ECU, injector control and associated lighting would soon drain the battery, but as i said it will depend on its state of charge as to how much but it will always supply a a higher voltage and amperage than the static system, all cars are the same...and bikes are no different...if not the battery would discharge a lot quicker...even my 1975 T160 provides a positive charge at idle.

 

Please check your battery as directed, in the meantime these two will argue wiggly amps with each other for a while yet

 

I had a wiggly amp once...but the bottom fell out.

 

Funny that had one living with me for a while - but it went Ohm

 

My 2013 t100, developed a similar fault ( would not start). Turned out to be a dodgy clip on the ecu plug. Took a mechanic 6 weeks to locate it. Once ecu plug secured as it had started to work loose, (used a dab of glue as clip was broke) - touch wood all fine since ?. Hope you sort.

 

warming up a car or a bike is very old school. not needed, just wasting fuel.