Featured Project Fuligin

Discussion in 'Builds & Projects' started by Terry S, Aug 18, 2018.

  1. Terry S

    Terry S Well-Known Member

    Jul 24, 2018
    70
    68
    Volcano, HI
    Newer than Triumph OEM, anyhow.
    Amazon calls them
    KEMIMOTO Motorcycle Mirrors for Road King Sportster Street Glide Electra Glide Dyna Softail Road Glide 1982-2017 (Black 2)
    And the adapters:
    Joker MacHine Mirror Adapter Bushings Pair Aluminum for Triumph All Years
     
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  2. Terry S

    Terry S Well-Known Member

    Jul 24, 2018
    70
    68
    Volcano, HI
    And the new NH headers and togas are on. Thanks for all the encouragement -- I replaced the headers myself. Three of the studs came out with the nuts, so I replaced all four studs + nuts. I installed a Dynojet stage one kit, and it works, I think. I was able to take only a short test ride because it is raining like hell this afternoon.
     
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  3. Terry S

    Terry S Well-Known Member

    Jul 24, 2018
    70
    68
    Volcano, HI
    #23 Terry S, Sep 19, 2018
    Last edited: Sep 19, 2018
    An update. New NH headers & togas are on, and a Dynojet stage 1 carb tuning kit is installed. I give thanks to Dozier's Dad for shaming me into changing my own damn exhaust system ;). On Sunday I installed the NH headers and togas, and on Monday I installed the Dynojet stage 1 carb tuning kit.Today I installed the M bars.
    Impressions of the NH headers & togas: Very nice, install took more effort than skill. The local hardware store had appropriate replacements, so I ended up replacing all of the studs & nuts.
    You have to set all the pieces in place and nudge them into a good fit and alignment as you work your way around torquing the mount points. The first time I did this I had less then great fit on the crossover (there was a mismatch between the outer & inner joint where the slots in the outside of the left pipe crossover were not completely covering the inner end of the right pipe), so I had to loosen all the mounting nuts & clamps and start over. When I was done I degreased the headers and togas so my finger prints wouldn't get burned in when the pipes got hot. The system looks and sounds great, like a big ol' gurgling two cylinder engine. The header + toga setup is still pretty long, so the sound isn't raw, even w/o the baffles.
    Installing the Dynojet Stage 1 kit was straightforward. I had an SS replacement kit for the 8 screws that hold on the Keihin's top and bottom. On one carb, I had to drill out one of the factory screws.
    The results of the exhaust exchange & carb tuning met or exceeded my expectations. I do not have access to a dyno, but the power band feels much more linear. I hit second and accelerate hard and don't feel as though I should change gears until I am going 60 MPH. And there is that wonderful roar! If I am in 5th gear doing 40 MPH, I don't have to downshift to accelerate.
    This is not a cheap upgrade. The NH togas and headers cost about $900 US, and the Dynojet carb tuning kit was around a hundred bucks. Worth it, in my opinion.

    my_bonnie.jpg
     
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  4. Terry S

    Terry S Well-Known Member

    Jul 24, 2018
    70
    68
    Volcano, HI
    I'm going to add that I am afraid that I am running a bit lean at low revs. The new header pipes are turning gold, which is to be expected, definitely not blue, but the yellow is further down the headers than I would like it to be. I disabled the air injection when I installed the Dynojet kit. The Bonnie doesn't backfire at all, even in worst case conditions, meaning I roll off the throttle after accelerating hard. The main jet I installed was the biggest in the Dynojet kit, 118. I emailed the Norman Hyde folks and they recommended a 124 main jet. I opened up the idle screw 1/2 turn from stock -- don't dare fuss with it more without a proper D screw tool -- and to complicate matters further, all of my test rides have been where I live, a bit less than 4000' elevation. So I should be biased rich by about two main jet sizes.
     
  5. Terry S

    Terry S Well-Known Member

    Jul 24, 2018
    70
    68
    Volcano, HI
    Thanks for the advice, Half Ton. These adjustments depend a lot on personal riding style. I like to carry a passenger now & then, and I don't care about going faster than about 80 MPH. I want low end pulling power and mid range acceleration.
    I need to get the idle mixture set correctly first. I ordered a D screw tool weeks ago, but the supplier says that they are back ordered. I turned the D screw out from stock 1/2 turn using a kluge, but it is not good. The factory setting did not have the screws set out symmetrically. The left carb idle screw was not a duplicate of the right carb idle screw. They were kapa kai about 90 degrees.
    But I have a nice mercury manometer, and a nice DNA high flow air filter, and the richer Norman Hyde main jets so I'll figure it out.
     
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  6. Terry S

    Terry S Well-Known Member

    Jul 24, 2018
    70
    68
    Volcano, HI
    IMG_20181031.jpg
     
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  7. Terry S

    Terry S Well-Known Member

    Jul 24, 2018
    70
    68
    Volcano, HI
    Time for an update.
    New lower headlight brackets, new flat dash from Bonneville Brackets, new Lucas-style tail light assembly with smaller, black, bullet turn signals. The new dash has a puka for the ignition switch, so I moved it to the dashboard where God intended it to be. Also new NH M bars.
     
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