Baffle removal

Glad to hear it worked for you

I took about 90 seconds on each can, but went very lightly (it's harder to get started if you've previously enlarged the existing hole, as it renders the pilot drill useless).

 

Had a response from SC Project on whether their existing cans for 2018 Speed will fit the RS:

“The product will be developed probably by the end of this summer.”

 

Ok, I'm having some troubles getting the damn end caps off... Does anyone have any ideas? I tried the bicycle tire levers method and screwdrivers method (don't do this), as well as a heat gun and letting it run for about 20 minutes and I just can't get the damn things off. The closest I got was when it was running, I was able to get it to move about 1-2mm at the most. I beat my head against this for about 2 hours then said screw it and put new rivets in and reassembled. I'm afraid I'm going to damage the carbon when prying on it. I'm open to any and all suggestions.

 

It was harder than I thought, I used flat head screw driver to start to tease it to move, the tyre lever off a pushbike was used to keep the gap open then get another in further up. You really need to be careful with the edge so as not to damage it. It was probably the worst bit! The black glue like compound is very stretchy its moves and then pulls back. I had my son holding the end can while I teased it off, gradually the gap opened. Then I pulled it off with my finger tips so it didn't damage the cap, but it definitely hurt my fingers! Hope it helps, mine were glued all round so not easy but worth the effort if they come off. You could go the other way and remove the disc in each one. Mines perfect now with the discs out and the now removable baffles in. Without the baffles you need ear plugs!

 

I have taken the discs out already, I used a hole saw. It does sound good but I don't feel it made much of a difference sound wise. I'd at least like to have the option of having the baffles out if I want.
I could probably be really careful with a dremel and get the baffles out but wouldn't be able to put them back in because I couldn't get a nut on the back side. Delimas delimas...

 

I removed my discs out this past week on my '19 Speed Triple RS with the hole saw method with little drama. It is a difference, lower in tone, but not much if any louder. If it is, it is slight. The tonality has shifted, more growl which I *definitely* prefer. I have no desire - yet? - to remove the end baffles. Just my 2 cents.

 

You can use self tapper hex screws to refit them as required

 

Glad to hear the cutter-method worked out for you

It's hard to explain the sound difference, but I think you're spot on. The growl is deeper and I think it is a little louder - and it sounds much (much) better at idle and low revs. Most of all...it just sounds 'better'.

 

It was your detailed posts that led to me taking the plunge (!) and cutting those discs out - so an earnest thank you for sharing.

I would agree. It is louder in the sense that my main issue is that with my earplugs in that I wear, before I removed the Arrow "restriction discs" I could not hear the bike well at speed with my music playing, never a problem with prior bikes. That was unacceptable really, though I am exaggerating some, but it was an honest dislike for what I consider a premium exhaust. With the discs removed, I *can* hear the bike though nowhere as loud as I'd prefer which is why this thread about removing the baffles has intrigued me... but I remain gun-shy to go after them thus far. I am happy now but time will tell.

 

The detailed posts went a bit off track at first, but thanks for reading

Like you, I'm reluctant to take it further - I'm inclined to sit it out and wait to see what the other exhaust specialists like SC Project or hopefully Austin Racing (if you want loud...they are the mother of loud) come up with later this year.

The Arrow is not only a premium exhaust, but effectively an aftermarket exhaust that doesn't really hit the mark in terms of sound. The 2016 version with removable baffles and the finer finished link pipe was perfect (with no ugly clamps). I sold mine after I sold the 2016 R, but I wish I'd kept it and had a custom link pipe extension made to fit the 2018 RS.

Top tip for a bit more volume out of your Arrows...a) remove earplugs, b) turn music off

 

I've ended up cheating after not getting the sound I wanted, and not having the tools to attempt drilling out the baffle part, got a £30 slip on from ebay with removable baffle.

They don't fit very well, and I had to fashion an extension to the bolt section so it could be attached (cut up an old tablet case for this). But it sounds ridiculously loud now.

 

I think I will still be tempted when SC Projects bring out the new pipes later in the year, even after all the work.

 

Here I go, first post!
Followed this thread in order to fix my baffle removal. Can’t seem to find any decent sounds of it tho, so here is my attempt at recording it.

Use link ->
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1CM-ZGO3t6W8A1lx_06ppsEveGJgDXUsi

The tiny disc with the 5mm hole is out and the rear “main” muffler is also out.

The sound is not that much louder, but incredibly much deeper than with just the small disc out. Don’t mind the small mumbling from my buddy about my tire there

Will also post photos tomorrow or something, showing how I did this, by not removing the carbon fiber end cap, what tools I used etc

 

Think that with the cat still in place it’s quieter, I have the full 3into1 low boy on my R and I don’t want to remove the baffel in the can as it’s loud enough already!

 

I finally managed to get this done yesterday!!! I was having a really tough time getting the end caps off. I managed to get them off by getting a kit to remove vehicle door panels, the plastic tools, and sliding a skinny one in there and running it around the edge to break the glue seal.

 

I've drilled out the euro4/fun/noise restrictor this morning.

First thoughts are, there is really no reason not to do this. It's not a game changer, there's a nice open rasp to the exhaust note rather than the muffled euro4 noise all bikes seem to have now. It's not much louder, if you didn't know, you'd say it was factory, great improvement though.

30mins start to finish.

I used a starrett 43m hole saw, and got an extended arbour from ebay for £6. If you don't have the tools for this, then as long as you have a drill with a 13mm chuck, I doubt you'd be much over 20 quid for everything you need.

Before and after videos. Unfortunately for you guys I'm a good neighbor so only gentle on the throttle.





Ok - I've tried to delete this, it's uploaded by accident. 2 restrictor plates on the floor just in case you thought I was lying

 

Good work, I’ll be doing the same

 

This sounds like it all went to plan - brilliant. You’re absolutely right with your analysis - it’s not a massive difference, but it’s a noticeble transformation for the better.

I bought 41 and 43 mm cutters (there isn’t a 42 mm) but because I’d already drilled out the hole with the step drill, I didn’t have the benefit of being able to centre the cutter with the arbour/pilot drill. The 43 wouldn’t bite cleanly as it was so close to the edge of the tubing, so I dropped to the 41 which kind of located itself better inside the exhaust tube.

Good to know that the 43 mm is the solution for a first time attempt.

 

Get thw low boy if they have it for the rs, baffle removed I have to really jam in the ear plugs!