Is Anyone Making Aftermarket Exhausts For The 2018 S/ Rs Yet?

I thought that I'd learn to love the reduced sound...but I agree with you; they're missing the low rumble of my previous baffles-out Arrow cans.

The link pipe and catalytic converter exit pipe are different on the 2018, so I emailed SC, asking whether they had plans. I got this garbled reply:



I'm no expert, but the main change appears to be that the exit pipe from the catalytic converter used to be attached to the lower mounting point on the frame. For 2018, they've chopped the exit pipe short, and the longer link pipe now attaches to the mounting point instead (if you see what I mean).



I sent another email to SC, but there's been no reply.

In the meantime, I'm waiting for someone braver than me, to confirm that you can hack the baffles out of the new Arrow cans

 

I admit that I wasn't specific - I'm referring to the low systems...where the link pipe is replaced.

 

I bought a speed rs 5 weeks ago, and I have had an email back from SC project in Italy, they say they will have slip ons available for the 2018 rs in September. I'm not used to a bike this quiet, I have seen online people who have removed the baffles but I am probably going to wait for the sc project cans to be available. I would like to make my Arrow pipes have removable baffles, I think it should be possible. Maybe someone on here will have the answer as the Arrows look brilliant, removable baffles with a screw fix to put them in for track days would be perfect to me.

 

Woodywoody 84 posted about it here.

https://www.thetriumphforum.com/threads/baffle-removal.3813/page-2#post-191598

There's not much detail about how the internal end of the baffle is attached...but you can see there was a fight to remove it. I'm thinking that I'd rather not abuse my Arrow cans in this way...and it may be better to buy something from SC when available.

Strangely, as time goes on and I get used to the bike and sound, I'm liking it more and more as it is. Let's see how that feels in September

 

That's the decision I've come to, I've seen the hack jobs online and I don't want to do that. The sc project option is interesting, and it give me time to get used to it. The sound on the demo bike at high revs was nice, different but tasty. First 500 mile service this Saturday where the quickshifter and heated grips are being fitted, so I will be patient. The bikes superb, definitely the correct choice for me.

 

I've had my first service and have reached 700 miles - as I increase up the rev range, it's sounding better and better. I've settled into a 'give it a chance' mode, especially as nothing's available...and like you, I'm reluctant to start hacking it about. I can't quite see on the photo with the baffle out, but it looks like the inner perforated pipe protrudes a little and doesn't look finished.

You'll love the quickshifter - I've only just started making real use of it and find it to be silky smooth and really precise, and as others have said, even at low revs.

 

I agree, until you get into the higher revs you don't really get a true idea on sound, as for the quickshifter it wasn't in when I collected the bike but not really usable for running in, really looking forward to it. Great bike

 

I agree, until you get into the higher revs you don't really get a true idea on sound, as for the quickshifter it wasn't in when I collected the bike but not really usable for running in, really looking forward to it. Great bike

They said in the email to me the inlet pipe is a different size on the 2018 bike and they are bringing out a new sc project slip-on for the rs

 

I think Bg is correct - I emailed SC about the low versions which they at first said would fit, but definitely won't because of the different link pipe and mounting point design. They also said that the under-seat slip-ons would slip on...but it now seems that the diameters are different.

Trust no one.

 

I’m not sure if this is much help, however my bike went to a specialist race bike builder for the work with the cans, the internal part of the baffle is not welded to the can, it purely sits in there as one long solid tube, it is held on by a 1-2 mm weld on the end of the can.

As for looking at the internal part of the exhaust you do not see that mesh, it stands out in those pics because it was fresh metal without any blacking from the fumes etc.

In regards to the small disk at the inner most part of the can this was spot welded in place and had a small 5 mm hole in the centre of it.

Since removing the baffles the sound of the bike is unbelievable, so much deeper but as it moves up the Rev range it doesn’t lose that raspy note that is so distinctive to the new Rs.

The cans Do run a lot cooler now compared to before and the bike appears to just breathe better, I honestly think with the baffles removed and the suspension set up bespoke to yourself the bike is in a league of its on.

I can’t recommend enough getting the ohlins set up the bike handles so much sharper.

On a side note please find below a pic of the baffle and the small disk that was removed inside the cans.

Also a little lowboy option by Vance and Hines

 

Sorry I meant Leo vince exhaust not Vance and Hines

 

This is it on the rs I spotted on a you tube video....

 

That’s amazingly helpful - thanks for all the extra info. Just one question...I understand the 1-2mm weld that has to be cut, filed or ground away, but I’m not clear about the inner end of the baffle. I presume you mean that the disc (with the small hole) is spot welded to the baffle tube (and not spot welded to the main can in any way) - so why does it need to be separated (in a hacking kind of way) from the baffle? Why would the whole baffle not slide out (albeit with plenty of encouragement) once the main weld is removed?

I’d like to fit a small bolt so they can be re-inserted if necessary, so any extra info is much appreciated.

You’re leading the way here and I’m sure many will benefit from these insights

 

My question as well, I can understand the carbon cap end and it needing cutting / grinding etc. I'm not sure exactly where the other bits attached to? I might be missing something on a posting? As for making them to refit I would be doing that but it's simply a small self tapper easy enough. Hope you guys don't mind the daft question but I just want to know what I'm getting into before I start the job

 

Hi, sorry if I’m not being clear guys, I’ve drawn a very crude pic, the baffle will just pull out, and to be fair you probably could stop there, however the end of the inner baffle sits up flush against this metal disk which is spot welded to the inside of the can. To remove it we simple placed a large long metal chisel down the inside from the carbon end and knocked it out.

But like I say you wouldn’t actually need to remove that. And it would open the can up plenty!!! However mine now has a huge hole all the way to the cat!! And you do not need to remove the cat because you will not gain any more noise. If you did desire to remove that for power reasons, it would probably require a hilltop remap and you have to be careful about fitting a custom link pipe because it could effect the warranty from triumph when you remove the cat.

 

It does not damage the can in any way knocking that spot welded disk from the inside of the can.