Hi Folks, Sorry to ask this but im never happy when adjusting the chain, so wanted to ask your thoughts. Went to clean and check the chain on the GT today and it was really slack, so after managing to work the seized adjuster off i have managed to adjust the chain. Sorry to ask but there is a tight spot where a link isnt budging, i have soaked it in WD40 but no joy. I have adjusted the chain at this tight spot to be that of the manual of between 26-38mm. Have made a video to show, I wasn’t able to hold the ruler and film but at this tight spot it is between the values. However at the rest of the chain its pretty slack. I prefer it to be slack than tight but whats the consensus on how it looks??
If you have a Seized link that will not free New chain and I wouldnt want to ride it. Set the chain, on centre stand, measure on side stand.I think thats right.
Seems that I’ve eased off the link but there is still a tight spot on the chain. Will get a new chain on there in the next few weeks me thinks, haven’t done one before so that will be a first.
whatever chain you buy use a good quality tool to rivet chain together,wemoto etc sell decent chain tools at good prices unless you can borrow one as how often will you use tool.
I've just bought one of these https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/382452402887?clk_rvr_id=1527187917232&rmvSB=true It comes highly recommended by a chap who really knows his stuff and it's cheap. Use an angle grinder to break the old chain.
ive used angle grinder few times just need to be careful but works well,replaced chain on my old zrx 3 times because swinger is braced and put a nice jmc job on bike.
The guy who recommended the one that I've just bought has been using his for 8 or 9 years. He's a right stickler for tool quality so I had no hesitation in buying. If it turns out to be crap then it's only £12 down the drain but I'm sure it'll be fine. And you get a selection of different sized pins.
Agree, that's what I meant, buy cheap as they are all made in China. Unless you are in the trade how often are you going to use it!
Couple of things. Don't over tighten the chain. It needs a good 40mm of slack. Sit on it and see how tight it gets! Also on a ST the caliper carrier was anodized. No problem, but the GT is painted and bare ally where it fits on the eccentrc. This corrodes and seizes the eccentric in place so you cannot adjust the chain. Remove it and make the hole slightly bigger (With a file is fine) and fit with plenty of grease. This will help a bit.
I was given one of these from a mate who was giving up biking. I've used it 3 times now and it worked perfick every time.
Dont suppose anyone could take 5 mins next time they are cleaning their chain and do a small video to see what sort of levels of play they are running. I always find it difficult to gauge exactly what the 40mm of play should really look like. Be much appreciated
Can I add -; the chain has tighter and slacker points, all the way around, with the ruler in place, find the slack point, on the side stand, measure the slack, on the centre stand adjust the slack, then side stand and check. In neutral 26mm to 38mm . Bottom middle.
Always measure at the tightest spot. If the difference is excessive then time for a new chain and sprockets.
Clean it in place, or buy a new link, honestly just clean it in place, if its just clean, and not repair.
Ended up buying one of those cheap Chinese tools and it broke splitting the chain even after grinding down the rivets. So they sent me another full tool but managed to borrow a pals DID heavy duty tool looks the same as the link below. This worked a treat really easy to use, another job off the list.. https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/Chain-Spli...m=202259401105&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851
For the record, It's been over twenty years since I maintained a chain...how would one lube a chain and how long {miles) does a chain generally last with regular riding....no racing?
Should last 20,000 without touching it, and no lube. Regular adjustment, cleaning and lube 4 or possibly 5 times as long !
