12k Service Due

Hi I personally had a bad experience with Youles Manchester on my 12000 mole service so went back to Woods in Abergele however they seem to have changed the experienced mechanics for younger ones so not sure where to go now . You can shop around for prices at any dealer for comparison. I paid 300 for just valve clearance check and adjust on my Blackbird so price is probably the going rate for a dealer .. shame I can't find reliable competent mechanics for reasonable cost !

 

M Speed Triple 16, 12k service at my local dealer cost £550ish, I would suggest putting a spot of nail polish on the suspension linkage bolts, and if they haven't moved you know th bearings haven't been greased which is needed.
Same could be done for the concentric hub that must be greased.
I asked specifically for these to be done and not sure they were

 

Yes I was suspicious after service at Youles as the hub nut retainer was secured with a cable tie which looked remarkably similar after they had supposedly done the 12k service ... Also my indicator was hanging off within a mile of collecting my bike ! And no solution offered .. pity we can't trust these people charging large amounts for so called manufacturers standard.

 

My 94R is now 2-1/2yrs old and 7500mls, I considered having the 12k/2yr service done at the stealers when due last Sept just as the warranty runs out. But thought a) is anything likely to go wrong now, and b) is Triumph likely to do anything about it once out of warranty anyway.
Needless to say it didn't get dealer serviced.
I've just retired so now have less disposable income but plenty of time, so when I get bored and it's raining out I go do a bit more of the service. Items that I feel are mileage dependent I will leave untill it hits 12k miles.
Oil (Castrol full syn) and filter (Triumph) is a given, stripped and cleaned brakes and changed the brake fluid (TuneECU cycles the ABS), checked/re-greased the suspension and hub carrier, inspected air filter and plugs.
Checked ECU for errors, throttle-body balance, adaptive reset and reset the service indicator (all on TuneECU again).
So the best way to know the jobs been done is to do it yourself. (IMO)
As it happens in my case the hub and bearings were all still well greased and wouldn't have needed attention,
.......but got it anyway.





By the end of this season I should have 12k on the bike at which point I'll check the valve clearances and renew the coolant ready for the winter lay-up.
Edit - plus new plugs and air filter

To be fair to the dealers, to strip and clean as meticulously as I've just done the cost would be prohibitive.

Do they really check valve clearances at 2 years even if the bike has only done half the mileage? If so why? Other manufacturers go mileage dependent.

 

I take your point, obviously depends on the buyer, but personally I'd rather buy a bike that's been serviced by a competent enthusiastic owner than one that's been dealer serviced.
And I've never suffered very much on trade in value at dealers, any loss is tiny compared to service costs saved.

 

I have a fairly good relationship with the service guys at triumph and usually sit in with them while working on other bikes, best to get to know those guys, help me out on the sly loads of times.

Although think i may do the same as Col_C to save on costs.

 

This is why I like to service my own bike, just striped lower suspension link. Quite enjoyed doing it.

 

I need to do mine, just for peace of mind.
Anything to note that I may need to look out for...loose needle roller pins, difficulty getting it put back together etc?

 

No quite straightforward, I did find the bearings in good condition, but a lot dryer than expected.i would have like to see them smothered in grease.
There's various ways to support the bike, used a front stand (get someone to hold front if you don't have one)
Trolly Jack under drop link, the once jacked, axle stands under foot pegs.
Also when the back wheels off the floor, support it underneath with a brick/wood, to stop it dropping when linkage removed.

 

No quite straightforward, I did find the bearings in good condition, but a lot dryer than expected.i would have like to see them smothered in grease.
There's various ways to support the bike, used a front stand (get someone to hold front if you don't have one)
Trolly Jack under drop link, the once jacked, axle stands under foot pegs.
Also when the back wheels off the floor, support it underneath with a brick/wood, to stop it dropping when linkage removed.

 

Mark your service work in the service book yourself (signed, date and mileage) and attach receipts for parts you bought.

 

I have and still do all my own maint! I just enjoy tinkering with bikes and I really don't feel like anybody will take care of my ride like I will.

 

If you've got an Abba stand or similar the job's a doddle, needle rollers are caged so not going to fly everywhere. As said mine where still full of clean grease and even the hub carrier was well coated in copper grease (must have been assembled by an enthusiastic operative at Hinckley).
Ideally you should have a new nut ready for the sprocket carrier side, although you could probably get away with re-staking the existing (think it was nearly £20 for the new nut!).......which is an obvious way to tell if the dealer has looked at the hub.

 

Clive Wood triumph is a ride but worth it. Can watch him do it if you like and clean parts while it' stripped if you like also.
Just Google for recommendations.
You'll be plesantly surprised at the cost too.

 

Cheers guys
Planning on doing this soon
I am fortunate to have an Abba Skylight so no problem there.
Really would like to grease the suspension linkages and rear hub, just so I know it is done properly.

I have the new rear nut, I guess it is a matter of loosening both nuts when the rear wheel is on the ground, lift up the bike and ease off the wheel, and tap through the rear hub using a rubber mallet if needed.

Will also fit new tires, chain and sprockets while it is up in the air

 

Dependant on model, early ones idealy need a slide hammer to remove the top pin that holds the drop link. Will be a bugger without. Later ones are not so bad.
This is Clive Wood's demonstrator for maintainable courses.
If any bearings are gone. (almost certain) only fit full compliment bearings, not cheap caged ones (not fit for purpose).
You will also need some big circlip plyers for the hub.
If you don't
Have the tools best see Clive for a top job!

 

Later type being worked on

 

When they took the cowls off to get to the coolant they probably inadvertently didn't put the indicator back through it's mating on the frame? Just take them off and have a look. It's easy to get wrong if you're in a rush

I'm paranoid that people wont do the full service on my bike so I get them to do the bits that I just cant do, and that isn't very much...........

I appreciate to keep it within its warrantee you have to go to the dealer......they have you by the short and curlies!

I'm not keen on buying a new bike for that reason alone. There's a s*** load of money made in aftersales and I just think they make too much out of it.

But that's just me.........I'm as tight as a tight thing at a tight convention

When its out of warrantee you can afford to leave things a bit longer between services. Unless you're looking to sell it anytime soon..............and that's another story. My advice is to get a bike you LOVE (like the Speed obviously) and keep it! Learn all about it, get an ABBA stand and some tools................enjoy!

Change oil and filter every 4k or 5k and brake fluid once every 18 months and you're golden

One on that, the previous owner of 'Betty' paid £138 for an oil change!!! I wish I was joking. That's a 20 minute job if you know what you're doing. I can't stand to see people getting F***** over like that.

'Betty' has had 3 valve clearance and throttle body checks in her lifetime......... no shims have ever been fitted and the TB checks were always within limits. So really it all depends on warrantee and personal choice.

So glad my bikes as old as she is. She owes me nothing

All you need is a torque wrench, gloves, spanner and a Haynes manual

Nick