Now My Bike Wont Start

That’s a bummer! 12.62 doesn’t sound too bad. First off try another battery, but make sure it’s one you know is in top condition! Make sure it’s equal or more cranking power tho! That’ll be the CCA, forgive me if you know this!

 

If you have a spare car battery that is in good nick you could always try connecting that with jump leads - that'll give you sufficient oumph to turn the bike engine over.

Btw, attaching a car battery to your bike WILL NOT harm it in any way IF properly connected with jumper cables. I'm not talking about connecting to a big battery installed in a car, with the car engine running, just a loose charged-up car battery.

 

Similar problems here. I recently bought a new cheapo battery from Larsons through work and had it on the optimate for a few weeks before installing it two weekends ago. It fired up just fine every day. Then last Wednesday morning I stopped to fill up at the local Sainsbury's petrol station. Bike wouldn't restart. Enough charge to have all the dash lights and headlamp working fine and no dip in current when I tried to start, but when I turned the key it was just a click.

Anyway, work picked me up and one of the techs investigated and had the battery on charge all day. Couldn't find anything wrong. So we put the bike through its annual service on Friday. All seemed good until yesterday morning after the cold night, same issue with the battery. Yet my Tiger which has been sitting next to it for the past few weeks unused fired up first time. The Tiger has a decent three-year old Yuasa battery in it. So I'm going to buy the recommended Yuasa from work for the Bonnie and count the cheapo as a lesson learned - well hopefully that's all the issue is.

 

have a look here. I know its a uk site but it might give you an idea

 

Always think battery first

Starting System Symptoms:

Weak battery symptoms:
-- Slow cranking.
-- Stops cranking suddenly on compression stroke with button pressed.
-- Starts when starter button is released at end of cranking.
Repair:
-- Charge/Test/Replace battery.
Failure Modes:
-- Loss of capacity. Appears to charge, voltage good but no reserve for starting.
-- Won't hold a charge.
-- Low voltage/cell failure.
Preventative Maintenance:
-- Check fluid levels regularly
-- Maintain full charge: Regular riding, trickle charger.

Ignition Coil failure symptoms:
-- Hard starting/misfiring during cranking.
-- Rough idle that can't be tuned out with carb adjustments and carb cleaning.
-- Idle misfire clears with new sparkplugs, returns in a few hundred miles
Repair:
-- Replace: Preferably with Nology for higher reliability than stock Gill coils.
Failure Mode:
-- Shorted turns in secondary resulting in weak spark.
Preventative Maintenance:
-- None
Testing:

Pickup Coil failure symptoms:
-- No spark at all
-- Spark quits with engine hot, returns when engine cool.
-- Note: Pickup coil failure is total. There is no random misfire spark loss.
Repair:
-- Replace pickup coil
Failure mode:
-- Thermal intermittant with long (15-30 minute) period.
Preventative Maintenance:
-- None. Get a spare.
Testing:
-- Ohms checks hot and cold.

Worn starter symptoms:
-- Sometimes won't crank until the bike is rocked in gear.
-- Excessively noisy cranking with a grinding sound.
-- Click from under seat but no cranking.
Failure Mode:
-- Brush wear progressing to commutator damage.
-- Bearing failure related to brush wear.
Repair:
-- Rebuild or replace.
Preventative Maintenance:
-- Maintan battery in peak condition.
-- Follow proper starting procedures. Neutral, clutch in.
-- Crank 5-10 seconds at a time max., switch off for twice as long before cranking again.

Worn sprag clutch symptoms:
-- Very loud rattling when cranking
-- Starter spins but engine doesn't turn
Falure Mode:
-- Breakage
Repair:
-- Replace sprag clutch
Preventative Maintenance:
-- Maintain battery in peak condition.
-- Follow proper starting procedures. Neutral, clutch in.

Worn starter solenoid:
-- Click from under seat but no cranking.
-- Won't crank after rocking bike.
-- Starter continues to run after bike starts and won't stop until the battery is disconnected.
Failure mode:
-- Internal contact damage resulting in non-conduction.
-- Internal contact damage resulting in contacts welding shut.
-- Internal damage/wear prevents solenoid core movement.
Preventative Maintenance:
-- None.
Repair:
-- Replace starter solenoid.
Testing:
-- For no cranking, short across solenoid high-power terminals. Normal operation denotes failed solenoid contacts.

 

Please help i am new here, my 2013 Thruxton 900 does not start, battery checked and only 2 month old. The lights are on but i only get click and nothing.

 

Ok so have you read the post above yours.
where is it kept?
Do you have a voltage testing device?
Your battery is the most likely thing, When did you last start it ( in this cold [batteries dont like cold])
Is it on a tender?
The more information you give the more chance someone will solve this.

 

Sprinter is right. The battery is the most likely culprit. It may not have been fully charged when fitted or have discharged. The click you hear is the starter solenoid under the RH side panel but if the battery power is a smidgen low the ecu will not allow it to turn over - hence the symptoms you describe.

 

Thanks Sprinter, hereby;

 

why is the meter set to DC Amps when you want to measure DC volts?

Power Commander could be a culprit - not unknown.

 

okay yes i am a moron ha ha, but battery is good.

Please how do i check the power commander?

 

This is a guess
Can you just unplug and this resets the bike to normal settings?

 

okay thanks will do. Is something missing here or not plugged in?