Two Year Service Cost?

Who ever does it they MUST do the suspension linkages as they will almost certainly be in a state.

 

Depends what it needs I suppose, if it’s ready for oil and filter, plugs, etc it could be £200 plus, if it’s only an annual service, basically a safety check and electronic interrogation then it should be much less. To know for sure you’re best bet is to call the service department and explain how many miles you’ve done and ask for a quote. At the end of the day you’re having it done to get the book stamped, right?
As a guide I paid £130 for an annual service for my 2015 Speed, no oil change or anything extra.

 

My April 2016 reg Speedie is due its 12k service soon (Currently on 10k @ 1,000+ a month)
Will ask for linkages and rear hub to be cleaned and greased
I can probably expect a bill of £450-£500 or maybe more

 

try 660

 

It should be done at 12k or 2 years whichever comes sooner but a friend of mine (a well known triumph independent) cant believe how many he sees that have failed. This leads him to think many are simply not getting done. He keeps linkages for all bikes in stock ready to get exchanged as it takes a while to replace the bearings and its a full days job as it is. It also must have full compliment bearings, not the cheaper caged type needle bearings.
Avoid dealers who pay their techs bonus is my advice.

 

Is that rear suspension linkages and the rear hub that need attention,if so that looks like my mini winter project, if I can get the hub apart that is. Better start looking for a manual.

 

The rear hub is not too bad but will need large cir clip pliers. The linkage can be a b^$"*&d if you don't have a slide hammer, mainly to extract the top pin of the drop link (SSSA).
Hub strip this may help
http://www.bowl-of-mice.co.uk/DayT595_Hub.html

linkages
http://www.bowl-of-mice.co.uk/S3_linkage.html

 

Valve clearance check is on the service schedule for 2 year/12000mile service and is the main reason (excuse?) for the high cost, rear linkage check and lube is also on the list but in my experience is usually ignored (also know that valve check has not actually been done on at least one of my previous bikes). Not aware that the hub is listed but obviously should be.
It takes quite a few hours to do the valve check (they're usually ok until higher mileage) and then a few more hours if they need adjusting due to cam removal being required. Personally I can't see the point in doing the valve check at 2 years unless you've done the miles, cams/valves don't wear sitting idle in the garage. Likewise linkage and hub depends much on whether they're dry miles or not.
I will be doing my own servicing on my 94R now the 2 year warranty is up and will wait until 12000mls before I check the valves. Did SWMBO's 675 last year, fortunately was still in spec so no need to remove cams, but importantly I now KNOW they've been checked. Unfortunately I no longer have any trust that dealers do what they're supposed to, you take pot luck on whether you get a good dealer / technician working on your pride and joy. Of course doing it yourself saves a shed load of money too.

 

I agree that most are in spec and need no further attention, but some are out and there is only one way to find out, Then you can stretch the time till they need a re check.
I have seen many linkages that were gone although they had been on bike only used in fair weather and the bike looks immaculate. The cost of the needle bearings bushings and seals can easy top £250 in just parts if all are gone, so definatly a worthwhile project although having the correct tools can make this a relatively easy job to remove. Pressing out the bearings can have their own problems. Indeed when pressing out the bottom bearings on the drop link a spacer is needed between the 2 legs or else they can bend writing off the drag link casting.
My triumph independent friend allows folks to watch him work so they know its done, infact he often gets them involved and learn so much about their bike.
I know many techs scratch their initials inside the cam cover as proof they were there.
something else I found with the sprint GT SSSA. They have changed the manufacture of the caliper carrier, early sprint and speed type were anodised. the gt is painted but bare ally where it goes around the eccentric. This corrodes and gets frozen to the hub stopping chain adjustment again requiring a strip down. The bike was only 6 months old.

 

Agreed, I wasn't suggesting that valve clearances should be left unchecked, quite the contrary, I was suggesting those not confident enough to remove cams could possibly still check the clearances themselves and if found to be within tolerance have saved themselves about £500 (and no for sure it's been done and exactly what they've got). If they're out of spec could always then re-assemble and take the bike to their dealer for shimming.
Fair point ref the caliper carrier, should be an easy routine check to see if there's a bit of "rattle" in the carrier.
BTW rear linkage strip down is much easier on newer Speeds (2011> - not sure about earlier), so no excuse to ignore.

 

Yes later types are very much simpler to do. Poor linkage lube is not just a speed issue but akin to all single shock models.
If bearings require replacement use full compliment bearing. Not the far cheaper caged type as they only have half the load bearing capacity. Use HN types NOT HK.

 

Of course once upon a time we had grease nipples.

 

But then things wouldn't wear out nearly fast enough

 

That's about what I paid with the oil change added on. You probably wouldn't save much if you did the oil change yourself and provided they give the bike a good look over from front to back, (they had obviously given the brakes on mine some attention as there was a bit of copaslip present on the calipers), and a check to make sure all the electronics are in order, then I'd be happy with that, and you keep that nice dealer stamp in the book, and we all look for that when we buy. Nowt wrong with doing what you can to your own bike then having an annual service to keep the book right, it's what I plan to do.

 

I guess it's worth keeping the service book dealer stamped if your thinking of selling in the next year or so, plus for the latest model I don't think there's any software available to switch off the service nag and check for errors (unless anyone knows different?) so you're tied to a Triumph dealer.
From your post I assume Triumph have done the sensible thing and made the valve check mileage dependent, owners handbook (perhaps over simplified) says otherwise.

 

Hi, can you tell me where your triumph mechanic is located, thanks from Paul.