Thruxton Rear Brake Pad Retaining Pin's (removal)

i have 2 bike's, a kawasaki gtr 1400 & the thuxton 900,i seem to get on the thruxton more than the kawasaki,however i seem to come across more problem's trying to do a simple task on the thruxton,i have purchased new front & rear organic front & rear brake pad's,i've already had a problem removing the retaining pin on the front calliper,i ended up drilling the pin, then used an easy-out to remove it, i went to remove the retaining pin's on the rear calliper with a (new) correct size allen key & it seem's to be under sized, here i go again,i've looked online & this seem's to be a common problem, why didn't triumph use a bolt headed pin, would have made sense to me.a 2 minute job turn's into a nightmare.i have ordered & received the oem pin's from the dealers, just got to get & do it.

 

Someone else had a similar problem on here not so long ago! Hard luck hope you get it sorted

 

that was probably me.lol.

 

Hi Tappers, if I may offer you a thought on removing the brake pad pin?

Insert the allen key (albeit too small) into the pin and using a light to medium hammer, tap the end of the allen key at least 30 times. Just light tapping. Now try to unscrew the pin with either the allen key or a Torx bit of a size that need needs to be gently tapped home. If it doesn't release - 30 more.

This method will work and avoids any possible damage to the caliper threads. When you install the new one, don't forget to apply copper grease to the threads on the new pin.

 

Is the allen key a good make ?

and does it fit snug into the head of the new pin ?

If not you risk damaging the heads on installation, and having the same issue next time !

I would use aint-seize ( copperslip ) on the threads on assembly ( a small amount to lubricate/ coat the threads ) and tighten by hand

 

i will try a torque bit 1st,if that's not successful it will be the dreaded DRILL with an easy-out,i can't believe my luck, it should be a simple task in changing the pad's,not true in my case.

 

• Aaaah! Sorry

 

i purchased this to remove the rounded off pins,i had the drill & easy out set handy incase I needed them,the 5mm one done the job,atlast something went to plan,i thought i'd share with you what I used.

 

These pins are a problem because they need constant maintenance and dont get it.Clean them twice a year and thin cover of copper slip, works for me.

 

Hmmm would one big hit with a impact hammer with a small Allen key bit be as effective?

 

Hi Gary, the multiple taps methods works better because it is low impacts therefore less stressful on components. But it does work by gently braking the seal between the ally caliper and the steel pin.

 

Mechanic I worked with said" one sharp crack" to break the seal, both would achieve the same thing I think

 

Yes but you are putting '1 sharp crack" onto a steel pin in ally threads.

 

Good point biglad. Used to put brass nuts on exhausts with steel pins as they would shear first.
Pretty much like the alloy in the break calibers.

 

I made 5.1mm keys. problem went away. even new keys are 4.95mm

 

Dissimilar metals are used to stop seizure and as you say Gary the softer metal component 'gives' without damaging the mating part.
Still use anti-seize grease though.

 

The principle of the impact driver is to 'crack' the seal between nut and bolt coupled with a rotational movement.
Air tool or mechanical driver always does the trick when used correctly providing you can get a decent purchase on the nut or bolt.
Strongly agree with t552 on the fit of the Allen key.
Biglads advice is also right with the 30 small taps which should eventually 'crack' the seal, I must admit though I prefer one focussed sharp crack with the impact driver.
Great feeling when the bastard nut/ bolt yields to your hand skills.

 

Of course