Glad you managed it. A handy hint on torquing things up, I usually do it in 3 stages: say it's meant to be 20 nm I'll set it to 10 then 15 or so, if I feel it's getting a bit dubious I stop at that, at least if the wrench is buggered you don't get a calamity!
Just one other thing with torque wrenches, you should operate the "click" mechanism in them a few times before attempting to use the wrench to tighten anything. Operating the mechanism moves the internal parts and redistributes the grease / lubricates everything so you get a true reading, I usually do this with the scale set to minimum then adjust to suit afterwards, can make a big difference especially on the lower settings.
hi, fantstic that you have that pesky bolt removed its a bugger when it happens just a quick note what ever you do if you apply a anti seize lube DO NOT USE THE ORGINAL TORQUE settings as all torque setting are for a dry threads .if you apply anti seize and use orginal setting it will over torque the bolt and more than likely strip the thread which you dont want .the pins only just need a quick nip up jason
I don't think I've ever torqued a pad pin and I've never had one come loose. Glad you got it sorted without further grief. Always back the torque wrench back off after use, leaving it set under tension could affect the settings.
after seeing the price of a NEW calliper i'm glad thing's turned out ok, it's good to see some good advice & tip's on here.regarding the torque wrench,it's the 1st thing i do after using it.
If there is a next time you could try the ball end of the correct size Allen key. It's like that for that reason as well as undoing inacsessable bolts. This may have already been mentioned. Hope that helps.
just a quick update on that dreaded retaining pin,i ordered a replacement stainless steel retaining pin from SQUAREDEALS,they sent me a 58mm one, it passed through the inner pad fine, the outer was a different matter, it got very hard to tighten up,i was in fear of stripping the threads on the calliper, i noticed a slight imperfection on the leading edge,i tried filing it off & trying again, i still had the same results gave up in the end,it may have been slightly bent,i emailed them to tell them my finding's.they sent me a replacement pin which was 65mm in length,i fitted it & it went straight through both pad's without it tightening up on the thread's.i emailed them yesterday to tell them about it, i received an email from the part's department today,that a 58mm replacement pin will be sent.they didn't ask for the damaged or wrong length one to be sent back can't knock them at all, there after sales service look's good to me.
Shocking service if you ask me. Firstly they should be wanting to investigate why the first pin has nearly F***ed your caliper. They may have a batch of these with the same problem. It could be that the thread is incorrect or has been de-burred after the thread has been cut throwing a burr into the thread. Secondly sending an incorrect length pin ? These are brakes we are talking about, fundamental to your safety whilst riding.
A spline drive socket gives a better bite in a rounded off Allen bolt as it has twice as many points to grip/cut into the head
I made up an allen key fitting. 5.1mm Its a perfect fit. Even new 5mm allen keys are 4.95mm I even have some I made going up in increments incase I get one that's FUBAR. I made a set up for my friend triumph tech Clive Wood so he never has a problem too. I could haver either sent you a key for beer tokens or fixed it for you but only just seen this.
