Bonnie T100 Tappet Shims

Hi all,
I have a 2 year old 865cc Bonnie T100 from new purchased from Destination Triumph and who only has serviced the bike. At its first 12,000 mile service (carried out in fact at 11,000 miles) it apparently needed the tappet shims replaced. It was just on the 2 year Triumph manufacturers warrantee period but I had also bought at time of purchase the 2 year extended warrantee for an extra £399. Notwithstanding, I still had to pay for parts and labour under wear and tear. I treat the bike well and do not thrash it! So why did it need new shims after only 11,000? Is this usual?

Thanks
Superglide

 

Thanks for your quick reply. I don't know the full count, but it was described as 'some of them'. But your answer helps a lot in so far that it is not unusual for the shims to need replacing at such mileage. Thanks

 

I would document this very carefully if I were you as I believe this IS unusual. I would be looking for paperwork to prove which valves were out of the acceptable range, so you can keep an eye on them.

 

Thanks. I will most certainly do so but it does raise the question as to whether it was in fact properly set up when engine was originally assembled and/or the hardness quality of the components involved. If such replacement should not have been necessary, then Triumph (and Destination Triumph), surely, should not have regarded this problem as 'normal' wear and tear under its manufacturers or the extended warrantee. Is this a correct interpretation? If so, and some question arises pertaining to the quality of the product, then maybe I should ask for a formal statement from Triumph Motorcycles Limited. Thanks. Superglide.

 

Hi, I had my 12000 mile done at destination Guildford a year ago or so, they came up with 3 shims replaced, they wrote the thicknesses down on the service sheet, but that's if you beleive everything you read, I don't know, they could have needed doing or it could have been an easy £200 taken of a sucker. Some people say they've never touched the shims in 30000, I guess the only way to know for sure is a mech you really trust or doing it yourself.

 

They will have had to measure and record all the sizes.
Sometimes the shims can be mixed and matched to achieve the mean spec. which minimises the need for all new shims, but that is a bit more time and patience.
Basically if you are using a dealer you just have to trust them.
Bit of a fiddly job to do yourself if you are not used to mechanical maintenance.
One good thing is your service record is intact if you come to sell.

 

I bought my old race bike as a 19,000 mile Busa.
Upped the power by about a factor of x3+ and it only need two of the original shims replacing in 5 years of racing and it was stripped every year.
As SJ says, once everything is bedded in and the shims set, they're normally good for a long time.

 

Thank you all for your comments and observations. Very helpful. Together with comments similarly made by my local club members lead me to conclude that there is indeed a likely production quality issue involved, either in the assembly process, or, in the source suppliers of component parts, or, in turn their suppliers of supposed high grade steel used to manufacture the actual shims. There is no other explanation if there is this inconsistency in experience. So I am therefore hopeful this Forum is in fact being followed by someone in the Triumph technical team who can explain as Triumph will most certainly have been monitoring and getting feedback from dealers etc etc. Thank. Super glide

 

That's why its part of a service schedule to check valves at 12k intervals. I think that having a couple changed at 12k is something to be expected rather than jump up and down and say things are faulty or bad manufacture. It also depends how close the tech want to be. Some will not bother if 0.01mm over tolerance, some will. Also if in manufacture it was 0.01 within spec and now .01 under who is right to change it. although this is only 0.02mm or 0.0008" wear, Less than 1 thousandth of an inch.
On a Plus if a tech does the hard part of a 12k seems reassuring to think he probably done all the other stuff.
Go on and ride your bike and forget about it, it really is normal.

 

You seem to be concerned with regard to the quality of the materials used in the valve train, I would not be unduly worried, the reason for most valve adjustment being required is actually due to the setting of the valves and head ( Ali alloy ) where the components settle together over a period of time relative to use and tolerances.

Having had quite a few bikes over the years with bucket and shim valve adjustment so much depends on use that it is difficult to talk in definite figures, but in general valve clearances tend to drift / alter less once the motor is fully settled.

This is also common with many nut & screw adjusted valves too, indeed the last bike I had ( bmwr1100rt ) valve clearances were virtually static between 50 & 100k miles ( checked ever 6000 ).

 

I had all the service paperwork for my 03 Bonnie showing no valve shim replacements upto 24000 when I checked them and still did not require any.
Luck of the draw I suppose.

 

I personally would be amazed if any require renewal. Trouble is, how do you know 1: if some need renewing 2) were they renewed? After spending 30 years in the trade, let's say it's easy money

 

Only two answers to that Ken:
1) Trust
2) Do them yourself

 

Now Philadelphia soft cheese is the preferred material

 

No win situation. If checked and non need doing they are wasting money/profit taking. if checked and need doing its a bad bike/build/materials. if not checked at all, useless dealer.

 

It's not unusual to need a few shims due to the reasons detailed above, I wouldn't agree that it's necessarily something bad.

 

Nor would I. its what people say about the dealers.

 

Sorry, yup, misread that the first time

 

My T100 is due now for a valve clearance check, it is a 64 plate with 12342 miles. I will let you know what my readings are, hopefully in spec, as it looks an awkward job on you-tube! Also special tools required?

 

I suggest fitting new dowty washers under the cam cover bolts.