Post your Bonnie pics here

Don't cut anything off until you have measured them yourself Andy.
Take out the old springs and line them up with the new springs.
Your new springs should be slightly longer and it is that exact difference in length you need to cut off your spacers.
Double check the 197.5mm by all means, but the comparison length check between old and new springs gives you the important dimension.
Make sure you cut them off square and both sides to exactly the same length.
If you prefer harder suspension with a bit of pre-load reduce the amount you chop off by 2-3mm or fit the TEC pre-load adjusters.

 

This was my front end Mick assuming his was the same as its 17 inch wheel ect but it may well be different

 

I would work on the presumption that they may well be different although you shouldn't expect a difference.
Safest bet is to measure old and new springs together and remove the difference in length from the spacer.
That way you know they will be correct.
Thinking back to when I changed mine on the Bonnie SE, the Hagon supplied progressive springs were longer than my stock springs but the spacers Hagon supplied were too short, that is why I had to use my original spacers cutting 16mm off them to get the correct pre-load.

Edited and corrected 29/06/17
Apologies for any confusion, the sun in Cannes must be boiling my head.

 

I did the calculations as the caps were tight to compress into the fork to threads so after the maths 8 preload settings i can soften or harden it either way correct as you said though if you like a harder setup lessen the amount you chop off good info there

 

Just discovered that there was a Meriden gold and white Bonneville, which was news to me!

Ok, now I have to get a grey top seat!

 

Try Burton Bike Bits for a seat, sorry no idea how to send a link though!

Curly

 

I've seen the Burton Bike Bits seat, much better than the OEM offerings IMHO.

It was already on my shopping list to replace the existing "ironing board"

I do like the Norman Hyde "Western" bars but I really can't be doing with swapping cables and hoses...

 

Updated with a smaller fairing for a cleaner look and raask headers and minizoom. Then tuned in our Dynojet test bench and re-jetted. She runs like a Dream.

 

Couple of pics (hopefully) of my Street Twin, have now fitted black inlet covers and Dart screen. Just waiting until I can get rid of crutches to give the screen a road test but I think it adds to the bikes appearance and should reduce wind blast a bit.

 

Here is my pride and joy done a few mods suspension ect

 

Like the seat and shockers.
Fork gaiters next job ?

 

Love the Gaiters is it much work to fit them im thinking its front end off leave yokes in place and drop the fork legs out

 

More time consuming than difficult. Front wheel and mudguard off. Slacken pinch bolts and do one leg at a time - it makes it easier aligning headlight ears - then reverse.
The OEM gaiters seem to be the most durable. I chomped through two pairs of pattern items that lasted about 9 months each.

 

Cheers for that mate i might put some on only genuine oem though do it once right like might use Andy-K2s bike as a guinea pig test first

 

As hell as like

 

As Callumity said, one leg at a time.
I carefully knocked the plastic stone protectors off with the forks still in situ with a home made plastic chisel thingamyjg. Makes it a lot easier and less risk of damage.
Castrol red rubber grease lathered round the stanchion underneath the gaiter.

 

Fork kit ordered genuine from world of triumph quick question is there only a top screw on clip is the bottom fitting just a tight push fit ?

 

Bottom slips into groove on top of fork leg .....revealed when you remove plastic 'shin pad'!

 

Cheers for the info thought it was something along those lines best to ask before cocking it up

 

Don't forget to have fork full extended when fitting, I know it's obvious but some people get a bit excited when fitting these things and forget the basics