Anyone fitted the Norman Hyde RBS565's on their SE?

I've just got a pair and although the fitting looks straight forward I can't work out how the centre stand bracket works. To quote NH's instructions "Mount new Side stand up-stop bracket to left centre stand lug as shown above. And then a B&W grainy picture of the right hand side of an SE. All the stand gubbins are on the left hand side of the bike. What the hell is a Centre Stand Lug? If any of you chaps have installed these pipes please can you explain how and where the bracket fits.

 

Thanks for the response guys. I think I've sussed out what to do. The bracket goes on the centre stand mounting lug. I think I need to remove the centre stand nut then like Mick says jack the bike up or get someone to hold it whilst I position the stop then replace the nut and tighten it back up - this is used to stop the side stand hitting the exhaust. The lh pipe has a bracket welded on, this is for the centre stand. I just use the rubber stops from my original lh pipe. I'm not fitting them till Friday but I just wanted to get my head around how the hell this bracket fitted first.... watch this space.

 

Update: Fitted the pipes last night and it was a relatively painless operation. The side stand up bracket does as suspected bolt to the centre stand lug and this was straightforward even with the bike still on the centre stand. The worst bit was fitting the rubber stops from the original exhaust to the new pipes and side stand bracket but with hot water, soap and a little perseverance this was doable.

I've not had the bike on the road yet but the exhaust note does sound fantastic on idle and even better when you open the throttle.

 

Took the bike for a spin and the sound is great, not to loud when just cruising along but if you open the throttle and accelerate hard it's loud but not unpleasant. On the first try it was popping back exessesivly when the throttle was closed after accelerating hard so I took the bike home and blocked the air injection feed from the air filter then took it for another spin. The pooping has gone and the bike is more responsive on low throttle and accelerates away smother. (Thanks BigLad for this tip) At some point I'm going to compleatly remove the AI. Is anyone else running these pipes with a remap and if so what map did you go for?

 

The pipes are straight through. I need to do more reasearch regarding SA removal and I'm a bit worried about mucking about to much with the air filter because of induction roar. I don't want to end up with some thing I'm not happy with so instead of a Big Bang I'm going for the slow push I've looked at TTP but I'm wondering if I'd get the same or similar results using one of the maps that you can download from TuneECU, particularly the Arrow 2 into 2 map. I've looked at all the maps on the site but none of them mention Norman Hyde peashooters. Removing the AI is defiantly the first step.

 

Update:
I've just blocked off SAI, the TTP removal kit is waiting to go on and I will do this once I'm happy. I'm still running the standard map in the ECU (20506) The idle speed fluctuates a little on tick over (960 - 1060) and when I first fitted the pipes the engine surged quite a lot at low town speed. I did the adaptation routine and disabled SAI on the ECU and although the engine still surges a little at low throttle (25-30 mph) it's not as bad. My question is: Because the ECU is adaptive will the system learn the best parameters over the next few hundred miles or will I be stuck with erratic idle and a slight surge until I find a map for my NH pipes?

Why is there so much conflicting information on the internet regarding remapping the ECU on the Triumph machines?

 

Thanks for the response and input Dave.

I am leaning towards the TTP Tune 3 option and removing O², replacing the Air box cover and filter but I just wanted to get the bike running straight with the NH Peashooters and a map that is readily available like TORS, Arrow etc.. Looks like the maps are a bit hit or miss from what I've found on the net.

To be fair it's not running to bad as is but I'm a bit of a perfectionist so I want to iron out the idle and slight surging. It actually pulls like a train without any hesitation and it does sound fantastic.

 

I'm a computer tech by trade so messing with the maps isn't a problem and doesn't worry me. I'm just want the bike to run and behave like a bike. The Air Injection is a joke and imho something that should never been on a bike in the first place so I've made a project out of removing it and I'm learning a bit more about how the bike works.

 

Yes I've called TTP and they did say their maps require the removal of the O² sensors and the AI and Tune 3 requires the Air box baffle to be removed too. I will probably order the Tune 3 at some point having spent the best part of 400 quid on the exhaust, be daft to stop there.

Just out of interest what was the fuel consumption like after you had done the mods using the TTP tune?

 

Thanks Dave,

That's not to bad at all and not much different from stock. Ive seen some horror stories where people have put the after market pipe map in and their MPG has dropped through the floor. The worry for me is throwing money at the bike and ending up with something I'm not happy with. I changed the exhaust because the original ones are a bit characterless. I've got the sound I'm after but the down side has been the slight niggles I've mentioned. It's not like I'm after real performance increase just the bike to sound less like a sewing machine and more like a twin and to be tolerable at low throttle.

 

Hi Trumpbro,

Once I had worked out how to fit the little centre stand bracket the fitting was easy and I didn't have to bend anything.

I don't see why removing the SAI would stop access to your ECU though. Just out of interest do you know what map they wrote to the ECU?